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  1. #1
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    Default Finish for chessboard and pieces

    I was wondering what would the best thing to use to finish my chessboard and pieces when i actually make them I would like something that is fairly easy to apply to both the board and pieces, preferably quite shiny but is clear and hard would be good too, id also need to know prices and how to apply it.
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  2. #2
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    Any ideas?
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  3. #3
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    I was told by a friend that Cabot's kwik step is good for strength, any other suggestions?
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickelmaster View Post
    I was wondering what would the best thing to use to finish my chessboard and pieces when i actually make them I would like something that is fairly easy to apply to both the board and pieces, preferably quite shiny but is clear and hard would be good too, id also need to know prices and how to apply it.
    A shiny finish might be annoying to a chessplayer, I suggest a satin finish.

    I suggest you try some ideas on scrapwood - you might also want to try stains for improved differences between black and white pieces.

  5. #5
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    Id like quite shiny like a gloss not so shiny its reflective but satins not quite what I want.
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickelmaster View Post
    Id like quite shiny like a gloss not so shiny its reflective but satins not quite what I want.
    Your board, of course, but consider this advice if you want a board for playing chess:
    http://www.chesscentral.com/chess-set-tournament.htm
    Scroll to
    Chess Boards for Tournaments

    There's a reason for the FIDE regulations, and they're to do with player comfort over a game that typically runs for several hours.

  7. #7
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    That was quite interesting, thanks for that, and seeming as you seem to be the only other veiwing this thread, got any ideas for a finish either satin or gloss? That sounds kind of rude, not intended that way.
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  8. #8
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    Tis hard to get an answer sometimes.....

    I personally love the look and feel of wood with Organoil used as a finish. It enhances the grain whilst protecting it and gives a nice matt to gloss finish depending on how you use it. Wont show oily finger marks either and will only get better the more its touched.
    Smells really nice too the first few weeks.
    Varnish I find tooo,,,,unatural for such an organic substance as wood.
    Im a sculptor and for the last few years its the only finish I use for inside. Danish oil.

    Heres a link to them and theyve been friendly when Ive rung them up regarding their oils and all my questions....
    "Ya cant trust a pig with watermelon ya know"

  9. #9
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    What does everyone think of linseed oil, just used it on an old plane, but it gives a satin finish, smells good, is oh so easy to apply and gets smoother the more you use it. What do you guys reckon, or stick with danish oil?
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  10. #10
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    Danish oil would prolly be better. Linseed oil doesn't really dry, which might be alright for cricket bats and planes, but....... I have used hard burnishing oil which you can buff to a semi gloss finish, but still has a natural wood feel.

    I don't know how much experimentation you can do, cos you got to buy all the gloss levels to try them. You can get semi gloss in some things like wipe on polly, which is easy to apply and hard enough. One freind of mine made a chess set and dipped the pieces in estapol, which was petty shiny, but to much so for my liking. I recently got a tin of floor varnish in semi gloss, that actually is still quite pleasingly shiny. Its not like a satin finish looks sandblasted. Its just that a gloss surface is not getting in the way of you seeing the grain underneath. I like that better than glinting points of light off everything. Really shiny is also really hard to get really perfect, and shows up all the imperfections which will drive you really crazy. :aah:

    Does your school have spraying facilities? Cos NC laquor is also talked about as a really easy finish if you have the spray equipement, and might be a good way to finish fiddly chess pieces. Also comes in various gloss levels.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  11. #11
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    We do, but they arent very good and i suck with it anyway. I think ill probably stick with danish, Ill probably do a test, how long does danish oil last in a tin?
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickelmaster View Post
    We do, but they arent very good and i suck with it anyway. I think ill probably stick with danish, Ill probably do a test, how long does danish oil last in a tin?
    A while? so are you finished all your pieces? You've put me to shame. I've only done 11 pawns and ended up with 7 kinda matching, then I got distracted. Should try and finish it for my Dad for fathers day. How are you doing the knights?
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  13. #13
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    Nah still got 5 peices to make, 1 to fix and 1 to sand, one of my pawns exploded on me, quite interesting but id already sanded it and stuff so im gluing it together, if it doesnt look right ill make a new one. Click here for all pieces
    Michael

    If you cant fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem...

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