Shooting board plane - square or skewed?

[monoman]

I wish to build a dedicated shooting board plane and am considering using a skewed blade, like the Stanley 51 I saw in Derek's article, http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...%20Board4.html

This time I'm looking for feedback, not documented evidence. If you have used a skew plane for shooting mitres and end grain, do you think it was an improvement on a square set blade? Did you use it on a flat and a ramped shooting board?

Cheers

[jmk89]

I have used a skewed blade - a Stanley #140. It was better than a normal stanley block plane at least when using the LH side of the shooting board - because the skew pushed the work down and forward as well as lowered the effective cutting angle).However, it wasn't better than a Record T5 or my Carter C41/2. Both of those had more heft.

I reckon that a miter plane (eg Stanley #9


with a skewed blade would be the best of both worlds - heft and skew.

Of course, you will need 2 - one skewed left and one skewed right - one for each side of the shooting board!

[monoman]

Of course, you will need 2 - one skewed left and one skewed right - one for each side of the shooting board!

I haven't considered this, and frankly, I can't see why. Then again, I'm in the middle of some HEAVY reading on bevel angle, included angles, and more so there.

Under what conditions would I plane on the other side of the shooting board, except to change hands.

[monoman]

First answer on clearance angle.

As the blade wears, it wears unevenly. As a blade is used it wears from the perfectly sharpened edge you started with into a new shape called a wear bevel. The face of the blade that is pushing up the shaving (known as the upper wear bevel) wears approximately 3 times faster than the other face of the blade (the lower wear bevel). But they both wear.

If there was no clearance angle, even a minute lower wear bevel would cause the cutting edge to be lifted from the wood surface and reduce the cutting action. This is exactly what Terry Gordon was describing in the previously mentioned article. It doesn't matter if the plane is of bevel-up or bevel-down design. Both blades will develop a wear bevel as they are used.

The more the clearance angle is greater than zero, the longer plane can continue cutting once the blade begins to wear because it will take more wear for the wood to rub behind the cutting edge.

Absolutely nothing to do with springing wood fibers.

Derek is quite right, in my opinion, that 12 deg bedding angle on a Bevel-up plane is sufficient clearance. Although, it seems that Terry Gordon would disagree.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

First answer on clearance angle.

As the blade wears, it wears unevenly. As a blade is used it wears from the perfectly sharpened edge you started with into a new shape called a wear bevel. The face of the blade that is pushing up the shaving (known as the upper wear bevel) wears approximately 3 times faster than the other face of the blade (the lower wear bevel). But they both wear.

If there was no clearance angle, even a minute lower wear bevel would cause the cutting edge to be lifted from the wood surface and reduce the cutting action. This is exactly what Terry Gordon was describing in the previously mentioned article. It doesn't matter if the plane is of bevel-up or bevel-down design. Both blades will develop a wear bevel as they are used.

The more the clearance angle is greater than zero, the longer plane can continue cutting once the blade begins to wear because it will take more wear for the wood to rub behind the cutting edge.

Absolutely nothing to do with springing wood fibers.

Derek is quite right, in my opinion, that 12 deg bedding angle on a Bevel-up plane is sufficient clearance. Although, it seems that Terry Gordon would disagree.

And all of this, interesting as it may be, relates to the previous posts... how?

[Tex B]

Monoman,

Derek's article talks about a ramped shooting board, which won't give you quite the same angle as a skew, but should give some of the benefit without requiring a special plane.

Tex

[monoman]

And all of this, interesting as it may be, relates to the previous posts... how?

True. Posted to wrong thread.

[monoman]

Monoman,

Derek's article talks about a ramped shooting board, which won't give you quite the same angle as a skew, but should give some of the benefit without requiring a special plane.

Tex

Perhaps you missed the section on the Stanley 51/52 Chute plane.

[jmk89]

I haven't considered this, and frankly, I can't see why. Then again, I'm in the middle of some HEAVY reading on bevel angle, included angles, and more so there.

Under what conditions would I plane on the other side of the shooting board, except to change hands.

Usually you can get by just using your favoured hand, but the other hand can be useful. For example if you are working mitres on a piece of moulded stock, one of the ends will need to be done on the other hand so that the flat faces are against the board and the fence.

[monoman]

Usually you can get by just using your favoured hand, but the other hand can be useful. For example if you are working mitres on a piece of moulded stock, one of the ends will need to be done on the other hand so that the flat faces are against the board and the fence.

Indeed. Thank you.