wet-on-wet sanding/ burnishing results

[jur]

I am in the midst of a series of experiments to choose a finish on a redgum slab; I have noticed a dramatic difference in wet-on-wet sanding results between various products:

* Organoil deepens the colour beautifully when filling the grain, but it is tricky to get the surface to shine beyond the dullest patina, even after sanding through to 1200 grit and buffing with a felt wheel buff (much like a swansdown buff). It is quite contradictory: The surface is as smooth as glass and reflects as much when viewed at an acute angle, but the patina is still quite a dull satin when viewed at right angles.

* Feast-Watson's tung oil finish (much like a Danish oil): the redgum remains unimpressively pinkish, but with a very nice smooth satin finish; the grain filling colour was less than impressive. Not much color deepening overall. Good for a dark wood like jarrah, but I like my redgum red, by gum.

* Rustin's Danish oil very similar to previous - the grain filling colour was more of a dark grey than red - accentuated the grain too much with the wrong color. No color deepening of the piece. The funny grain filling color was the same color as the oil - a dark grey. No good.

I finally decided to use the Organoil burnish process for the fantastic colour it gives, but to increase the patina, to VERY LIGHTLY wipe on a ultra-thin layer of hard buffing oil after say 24 hours. After a few times of this, the surface is is like magic with no hard work involved. If these last layers are put on a bit too thick, then they can dry to dull patchy spots, but which are easily fixed with woodsheen.

I also mixed some techniques, like using the organoil burnish before wiping over with Feast-watson's tung oil finish. Very nice, too. Probably a close second.

Any comments?

[PAH1]

From my experience you are never going to get a full "wet look" sheen using organoil. I love it on certain timbers but not all. Try sanding to 400/600 using EEE ultra by hand, sealing with sanding sealer then ubeaut traditional wax. On some cardwellia I used that gave a far superior finish to organoil (ps you do not say which one). You do not say what it is to be used for so choices get a bit more limited from there. The other thing to try would be some of the Ubeaut shellac, either the normal or the hard if it is going to be wet, that will get you that extra shine.

The feast watson is probably in part poly-u (without being familiar with that particular product- just most are).

[jur]

The Organoil product was Hard Burnishing Oil. I fixed any dull drying spots (from wiping on a thin layer of Hard Burnishing Oil each day for several days after the burnishing was completed) with Organoil Woodsheen.

The Feast Watson Tung Oil Finish is an oil-modified poly-u; the instructions state you can wet-sand it (like a Danish oil).

The slab is for my kitchen island bench top. I have been cautioned against using oil and wax finishes as not being durable enough; that is a concern, but I am willing to take the plunge with the oil after my experiments with hardiness, water resistance, etc. The island bench top will get similar treatment as my dining table - it is not as if we will leave splashed water on it overnight.

If after a short time the finish is too marred for leaving, then I can always repair it and put the Feast Watson tung oil finish over the top to improve durability with no other penalty.

The way I am using the Hard Burnishing Oil is contrary to Organoil's own recommendation - they specifically say stay away from the Hard Burnishing Oil after burnishing. But wiping it on thinly after say 24 or 48 hours gives fantastic results - a soft gentle satin wet look. I don't know why they shy away from it, except that if you do it too soon, it washes the grain filling out. Or perhaps I have discovered something new (yeah right!)? The reason I like the wet look is it definitely improves the vividness of the redgum color compared to the dull patina. The basic underlying color is the same but the wet-look patina conducts incident light better into the wood and out again to the eye. With the patina the light does not seem to travel into the upper layer quite as well, resulting in a slightly duller look.

[PAH1]

I think that they state not to do that as it can build up and cause yellowing brittle deposits, rather than protected being embedded in the wood. However I have also found that although companies may state "apply only as directed" that does not mean that it is the only way that it can be used successfully. I recently finished a jewellery box in a red striped camphor laurel and used woodsheen to finish it, cam up a real treat and feels wonderful. Application was several coats with sanding in between while wet.

[numbat]

Organoil deepens the colour beautifully when filling the grain, but it is tricky to get the surface to shine beyond the dullest patina,

I finished my workbench in Organoil on the weekend. It is made from Secau - a tropical hardwood. When I finished the top it was a beautiful pinkish colour - similar to Jarrah.

I find that the oil has changed the colour significantly to a darkish brown. Whilst it is not so tragic on this bench (a workbench after all) is this typical for oil finishes? Is it possible to retain the pinkish colour or will all finishes darken the wood to some extent.

This will be useful information for my future reference.

Cheers

[PAH1]

I find that the oil has changed the colour significantly to a darkish brown. Whilst it is not so tragic on this bench (a workbench after all) is this typical for oil finishes? Is it possible to retain the pinkish colour or will all finishes darken the wood to some extent.

This will be useful information for my future reference.

Cheers

Sorry yes. All finishes will to some degree darken the timber, this does not have to be a bad thing, however it is another reason to trial finishes to see if you like them before using them.