Help, how to obtain a good finish ?

[brisand]

I would appreciate some advice on the best methods of finishing timber projects, eg. brushing or using a cloth, varnish or other methods, water based or mineral based on hardwood or pine, and whether to use a stain first then a clear coat.The type of projects are small tables through to a large table or chest of drawers

[RETIRED]

On what products?

[toolbagsPLUS]

I would appreciate some advice on the best methods of finishing timber projects, eg. brushing or using a cloth, varnish or other methods, water based or min

Also depends on if you are pressed for time e.g. Time = Money or for pure pleasure.

I prefer the hand finish over spray or brushing. But that's just me

Cheers


Steve

[brisand]

could you please expand on your method and type of finish you use

[toolbagsPLUS]

could you please expand on your method and type of finish you use

Mostly French polish or a combination of shellac and wax.

Although I have just been introduced to Hut sticks for smaller items and am blown away with the results. Easy to use and a brilliant finish. These are applied with a swan down (very soft) buffing wheel on a grinder.

Cheers


Steve

[Tex B]

Brisand,

It's a very very very broad question you're asking. You'll want to use different finishes depending on the type of wood, the use of the item, your equipment, time, and budget.

For example, if you're making a cutting board, you can use nothing, or use mineral oil, or some people use an Organoil hard burnishing oil. If you're making a box, mineral oil is not a good finish, and lots of people use shellac and wax. And etc.

There are a number of very good books around on finishing that address some of the key points. There is one available from the forum sponsor called the Polishers Handbook. You could also check your local library as most of them have books on finishing.

Unlikely to get much really good advice with this thread because it is such a broad question. However, you may want to read this one to get a bit of a feel for how some forum members finish.

I'd also suggest just browsing the Finishing forum here for some more specific answers (finish for blackwood, huon pine, dining table, etc).

Regards,

Tex

[mjmjm]

Steve, what are Hut sticks? Google won't tell me.

Michael

[toolbagsPLUS]

Steve, what are Hut sticks? Google won't tell me.

Michael

Hi Michael,
Check this link from carba-tec
http://www.carbatec.com.au/finishes-...dturning-waxes
Best thing since sliced bread don't be put off that they are for woodturning they work just as well on a buffing wheel.

Cheers

Steve

[mjmjm]

Thanks

[ubeaut]

The type of projects are small tables through to a large table or chest of drawers

Not really something you'd want to be using Huttwax on.

Basic info for "A Polishers Handbook" can be found HERE and "Swans Down Buff" HERE and "Waxtiks" HERE plus a whole heap more including Shellacs and other really good stuff.

Sorry for the blatant advertising but I'd just as soon see us support the good old Aussie products as the ones from the USofA. Especially when I make them.

Cheers - Neil

PS I wouldn't be using our superior Waxtik on anything large either. Much easier and better methods of waxing, like EEE and Traditional Wax. Oops, there I go again with the blatant advertising stuff. Doh....

[Horsecroft88]

I won't try arguing with the benevolant dictator (aka Neil) since i have gathered, since recently joining the forum that he is the guru on this topic.

Like others have commented I agree totally, based on my 19 years of experience in restoring antiques and antique timber joinery that the finish to use does depend on not just the wood type (to an extent) but possibly more importantly, the nature of your project and its expected end use.

I mostly use shellac (orange), and finish off with bees wax but I am well aware of its limitations, especially if a surface is to be exposed to moisture, heat or hard use. Similarly, I have used a range of oils, inc linseed, Danish, burnishing and tung oil products. Tung oil I have found to be best for my heritage homes timber floors. I have also used them on my benchtops in the kitchen and bathroom.

I try to avoid the plastic type finishes, since I think of wood as a breathing substance and the idea of a plastic coat is an anathema to me therefore.

In restoring antiques I use both a brush and/or a pad, it depends on the piece I am working on and the surface to coat. For floors, bench tops I use a brush, while for joinery pretty much always a brush. I sometimes use stains or combinations of stains prior to and including with shellac, but they can be a little tricky to use and sometimes end up making what I am working on looking fake. Its a matter of experimentation and experience on knowing how much to use.

Dave

[Johncs]

I won't try arguing with the benevolant dictator (aka Neil) since i have gathered, since recently joining the forum that he is the guru on this topic.

Dave

You could say he wrote the book


























the one he pointed to.