Cutting Laminated Bench Top

[Karrie]

Help! I am installing a kitchen but hit a snag today when cutting the bench top. We used a jigsaw with a length of wood clamped to the top to serve as a jig to help cutting straight.

Well, something went wrong.... first the "jig" moved and we couldn't get the cut lined up again. Started over and then the blade bent.... We are now dangerously close to cutting the top too short (maybe already have). What are we doing wrong?

[vsquizz]

Karrie, I take it that it is a post formed laminated bench top. In such a case the bench top will be 38 mm or thicker. A lot of standard blades in the jigsaw will not cut straight in timber or laminated board this thickness.

If the jigsaw is your only option then go out and buy the best quality blade you can get. A genuine Bosch blade is available for laminate cutting. Then the trick is not to try and force the jigsaw by pushing down and sideways over the blade. Just hold it firm and cut slowly, steering the jigsaw from the back. If you try and push it sideways at the front you will end up with a skewed cut/off vertical.

If the jigsaw has variable speed and angle settings first of all try a slow speed and see how it goes. Generally a high speed, slow feed rate and fine tooth blade will work best if you don't get overheating. Don't force it, go very slow and it can be done.

The only way to true up a cut once it has gone off the rails is to use a (hand) panel saw with fine teeth.


Hope this helps. Cheers

[Karrie]

Thanks Squizzy,

I actually thought that my dear hubby was "forcing" the issue! I am thinking of buying a circular saw - would that be a better option?

Karrie

[journeyman Mick]

Karrie,
if you want to use a circular saw bear in mind that the teeth will be exiting through the laminate top on the upstroke. This is almost guaranteed to chip out the laminate. This may not be an issue if the cut edge is going to be hidden under tiles on a splashback, but it's best avoided anyway (the chips can be 5mm or so). To minimise chip out you can cut from the back (so the teeth will be exiting through the bottom), use an aluminium cutting blade (expensiveish), or both. If I need to cut a top on site I usually use a jigsaw with a makita blade specifically designed for cutting double sided laminate board. You will still get the occasional small chip (less than 2mm), but I will only do it if the edge will be hidden under a splashback. If the edge butts against a wall I usually use an electric planer to get the last few mms after I've cut close to the line with a jigsaw.

Mick

[vsquizz]

Karrie, as per usual following Mick's posts I can say "what Mick said". If getting a circ saw for panel and sheet work, get a smaller one. A 7 1/4" (182mm thereabouts) is heaps bigger enough and so much easier to control than a 9". Smaller ones are even better in the 6" range (around 155 mm). Blades are also cheaper.

One thing to remember with the circ saw is that you can't cut right up to an inside corner. You still need a good panel or coping saw or otherwise the jigsaw. For good clean straight cuts every time you can't beat the circ saw so long as you follow Micks advice on the blades and marking out so you cut from underneath.

For exposed edges I still run two layers of masking tape over the top side of the cut to further reduce tear out. Some of the new laminate (fibreboard) blades are exceptional and don't seem to blunt quickly.

Have fun & BTW, My intial cuts with a jigsaw through thicker material where pretty ordinary


Cheers

[Karrie]

I thought I would let everybody know that with a plane saw and some elbow grease, I managed to make two perfect cuts trough those bench tops! The masking tape helped stop the chipping, so we are all good.

Thanks for all the info.

karrie

[vsquizz]

Glad it worked out for you Karrie

Cheers