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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Port Pirie Sth Aust
    Age
    60
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    1

    Default Heat proof material

    I have a small Masport Yukon pot belly in my shed, that I installed soon after I poured the cement floor, as we were in the middle of winter.
    However since then, over summer i have been lining my shed with sarking, fat batts & MDF sheeting, which I have polyurethaned, then painted, comes up a treat, but when I installed the pot belly to maximise space I had it against the wall, flue is probably about 100mm from the MDF, and the main body of the heater, about 200mm.
    What would be the best material to place behind the pot belly, and would I have to run in all the way up to the roof, following the flue, or just behind the heater body?
    Don't let schooling get in the way of a good education:U

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    777

    Default Heat proof material

    I would say you must seek professional advice for this, you need some warranted advise and product. When I lived in Japan about 12 years ago, there was a spate of unexplained house fires that were eventually tracked down to carbonization (charcoal formation) of wood behind stoves and heaters. Charcoal has a much lower ignition temperature than wood, once the wood converts to charcoal, it'll eventually catch fire.
    scared you enough?


    Cheers
    Michael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    you used to be able to get heat proof fibro cement sheeting we put it above the gass watter heater under our house to stop teh heat burning teh floor.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Gyprock FlamechekMR™ plasterboard

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/newrep...ote=1&p=905354

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Port Pirie Sth Aust
    Age
    60
    Posts
    1

    Default Heat proof material

    Thanks to both of you, will do some more research on this
    Don't let schooling get in the way of a good education:U

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    86
    Posts
    1,067

    Default

    Another way is to create a baffle set off the MDF. Get some aluminium sheet and some aluminium tube and cut the tube into 25mm lengths and get some screws long enough to screw into the MDF and go through the aluminum sheet and the tubes and set the sheet off the wall to create an air gap between the MDF and the aluminium sheet.


    Allow the sheet to extend about 200mm past the edge of the heater and run it up behind the flue extending about 100mm each side of the edge of the flue.


    This is how I used to protect roof timbers when installing heaters.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Port Pirie Sth Aust
    Age
    60
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    1

    Default

    Thanks, but have decided on using Hebel blocks, as they are heatproof, and are the perfect size, 600mmW x 200mmH x 75mmD and only $4.90 each, the Flamechek plasterboard I have been told by hardware store is fire proof, not heat proof.
    Don't let schooling get in the way of a good education:U

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