Sanding Sealer

[Ian Butler]

Does anyone know where I can procure a non-alkyd based sanding sealer? I know that Zinsser have a Shellac based sanding sealer but it's only available in 4lt cans. Have tried Orica and they don't have any in their product ranges. Otherwise, can someone suggest an alternative method. Previously I've use Cabots 'Crystal Clear' Gloss or Satin over Wattyl Alkyd sanding sealer. Recently I've got a migraine after using alkyd-based finishes so am looking to change. Any advice would be appreciated.

Lastly, everytime I use Tas.Oak and Aquadhere; after wiping off the glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth I get little black dotted stains in the timber surface. I can't remove them. Again, any advice welcome.

[Big Shed]

Click on the Ubeaut logo above your post and you will find a shellac based sanding sealer, fancy asking a question like that on the Ubeaut forum, shame on you

[mic-d]

Does anyone know where I can procure a non-alkyd based sanding sealer? I know that Zinsser have a Shellac based sanding sealer but it's only available in 4lt cans. Have tried Orica and they don't have any in their product ranges. Otherwise, can someone suggest an alternative method. Previously I've use Cabots 'Crystal Clear' Gloss or Satin over Wattyl Alkyd sanding sealer. Recently I've got a migraine after using alkyd-based finishes so am looking to change. Any advice would be appreciated.

Lastly, everytime I use Tas.Oak and Aquadhere; after wiping off the glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth I get little black dotted stains in the timber surface. I can't remove them. Again, any advice welcome.

The black dotted stains... You haven't been filing or sanding steel and that's contaminated the rag? I had this problem once before.

And you probably don't want to give a finishing lesson, but why does one use a sanding sealer? I ask this because 1) I don't know and 2)I've used Feast Watson proofseal to seal timber before and that is an alcohol based sealer , but I don't know if it has overlapping purposes to their sanding sealer?

Cheers
Michael

[Ian Butler]

Thanks for the dressing-down, Fred. As soon as I hit 'submit' I thought, Ahh, I didn't look at U-Beaut products. Whilst I was doing so, your reply arrived.

Any thoughts on the Tas.Oak question? Ian

[Cruzi]

Luxury Paints, Luxseal.

Tassie Oak (the stuff that Bunnings sells anyway) has a habit of going dark where you sweat on it, even putting sweaty hands on it makes it go purple black.
It does sand out, but can take a bit to do so.

[Ian Butler]

Hi Michael,

Here is Feast Watson's take on Sanding Sealer...
'A clear, fast drying interior timber sealer for open grain timber. Feast Watson Sanding Sealer dries to a hard clear film and is designed to be sanded off, back to a smooth, timber surface, allowing the Sanding Sealer to remain only in the grain.'

And Proofseal...
'A clear, fast drying wood sealer that prevents the penetration of top coats into raw timber. Feast Watson Proofseal is ideal for priming light coloured timbers to help avoid darkening of the timber that occurs when oil based top coats are applied. Proofseal is also ideal for sealing oily timbers such as Teak, Tallowwood and Brush Box. Oily timbers can cause problems with drying and adhesion of top coats, so by sealing with Proofseal prior to applying floor finishes or decorative varnishes, these problems are prevented.' So I see the overlap although Proofseal seems to be for oily timbers

But again, their Sanding Sealer 's alkyd based.

The black dots, I think might be caused by the damp rag I use to clean-off the excess glue. Maybe Tas.Oak doesn't like to get damp as that's what the marks look like.

Thanks again, Ian

[watson]

My go is using diluted Shellac as a sanding sealer. FWIW.
Sand to the appropriate grit....clean off ........apply diluted (6:1) shellac with a rag.
When its dry....(maybe overnight)....I take off the "fuzz' with 1200 grit with the grain.
I then re-commence sanding and go as high in grit as is required.

I think the Feast Watson and other stuff is pore/grain filler.
That's my take on it....BTW I dilute Ubeaut White Shellac, as I like the result.

I'm not saying do it my way...Its just one that works for me.

[watson]

As an addition, I was working with two woods today.......Tassie Oak and Black hearted Sassafrass.
Warm day........bit sweaty..........wiped the end of my nose with my pinky.(as you do).
Dark stains everywhere I touched.
Took three applications of White Spirit rubbed in with a tooth brush (Thank you AlexS) to get rid of the stains.

Just how it goes in Noely World

[powderpost]

The "dots" are most likely caused by the water based glue or/and perspiration reacting with the tanins in the timber. I like working with Queensland maple, but it is a pita in summer as perspiration reacts to cause the staining. The stain does sand out, but it is still a pita.
Jim

[watson]

Sounds like we've all got Post Nasal Drip

[Ian Butler]

Just thought I'd say thank you to all of you who took the time to reply. Your input and suggestions are very much appreciated. Thanks once again... Ian