Sanding estapol - what grit, and why?

[MICKYG]

Docpaul

Do not use the belt sander as you have been told. Hand sand is all that is required with 400 grit paper or finer or better still use the steel wool trick. Have sprayed quite a bit of estapol and always use the steel wool trick, works a treat. Once applied there are slight patches of roughness which you will feel when you rub your hand over the finished area. I think there is gum or resin which comes out of the timber which causes this(not sure). If you use the steel wool 000 or 0000 over the finish before applying the final coat you will get a very nice finish.

Can be seen at http://gallery.groov-e.com

under woodwork.

Mostly satin finish applied.

Regards Mike

[doctorpaul]

Thanks guys, i got some 400 grit, and only three wipes of this was needed, and then ragged down with an old tea towel and turps.

Whacked a second coat on and it looks brilliant.

After the second coat, i have heard of people using really really fine steel wool (and something else i think)

Is this any use for estapol, or am i thinking down the wrong path?

[cellist]

Thanks guys, i got some 400 grit, and only three wipes of this was needed, and then ragged down with an old tea towel and turps.

Whacked a second coat on and it looks brilliant.

After the second coat, i have heard of people using really really fine steel wool (and something else i think)

Is this any use for estapol, or am i thinking down the wrong path?

Right path!
My own technique with any polyurethane (oil based is my preference):
Dilute the stuff with about 10-15% turps. I measure that amount by using a straight-sided container (see through) and measuring the height with a ruler (!). Then just take 10-15% and add that to the height measurement.

OK...now about application: First, I sand my timber to about 280. I know, I know...that's overkill...but I like the slippery feel of the timber with the first coat.

Interesting to me is the fact that first coats tend to take longer to dry than subsequent ones. I apply it with a cloth - not a brush. I just pour an amount of the diluted mixture into an ice cream container and then get an old baby nappy. Nice, soft cloth and (for good design reasons) highly absorbent.

Just wipe on with a folded cloth....not too much at a time, and that's it! Great control and quick.

There is a relationship with french polishing here....the added solvent does a couple of useful things. First, it flows better. But it also dries faster. Further, if you apply another coat while the preceding one is still "green" you really don't have to sand. Like epoxies, there is a chemical bond with polyurethane. If it's bone dry, you need to key the surface, and that's where the 400 grit paper comes in handy. Haven't tried steel wool for the between-coat rub, but will do so on a run of 14 tables I have ready tonight.

The diluted coats will be thinner than if you were to apply the stuff without the turps. So you might want to build more coats overall.

After 2-3 coats (I'm presently using Feast Watson Satinproof....a great product in my opinion) I let it dry off for a day. Then out comes the oooo steel wool and some Danish Teak Oil. I rub the surface with the oil and steel wool and then dry it off. A note of caution: oils like this on rags are potentially prone to spontaneous combustion, so put used rags in a bucket of water and then dry them out before you chuck 'em.

Finally, I use Gilly Stephenson's wax/polish over the top. Wow....what a finish! Everyone who sees and touches the furniture I make says 'wow'.

See my website for some images of the tables, and I'll attach an image here of the top of a recent one I did in Victorian Ash.

Hope that helps!

Big Mike

[endgrain]

"an old tea towel", "it looks brill", "am i thinking down the wrong path?"

Pictorial evidence would be pragmatic doc, unless ya tea towel has been "crocheted".

[Willbill]

To answer the question "Is there any harm in just doing a second coat over the first?" If you don't cut back between coats the top coats will peel of sooner or later.