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22nd June 2008, 11:25 PM #16
Hi guys
To clarify it a bit more, the tacking by opposites is performed and then welding small segments by opposites.
Any stress generated then has an opposite point to resist distortion movement.
This avoids heat build up and the subsequent stress and distortion of the weldment in one concentrated area.
I would not wait for welds to cool,rather the opposite and move straight to the next opposite weld and apply before any distortion occurs.
I 'd say though your correct tack up was enough to resist distortion stress in your case.
Grahame
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22nd June 2008, 11:54 PM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
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- Melbourne
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when I used 1.6mm rods on a few projects I too found it burned holes quite easily .....so .....I turned down the amps too 95 .....and moved a bit quicker with the rod ...as Grahame says ...to much heat will melt instead of weld ....nowdays I have one of those cheapy welders that are preset .....high or low ....and using a larger rod wont work as well as using the right one correctly ......make small runs to build up the required weld size/strength...instead of trying to "do it all in one go".....use a tack hammer to remove the carbon from the weld once it has cooled , then weld over it and build it up again , repeating the process ...
patience helps too , good luck
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23rd June 2008, 12:14 AM #18
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8th July 2008, 07:46 PM #19Banned
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- Jul 2008
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Welding thin stuff.
You can't actually do alot of "welding in the "semi vertical down" if the job can't be placed in that position.....
Anyway, what in the hell is a "semi vertical down" position? Is this a new "welding terminology" that no one in the industry uses?
The correct way to weld thin material with stick electrodes, is to use a kind of hot, "stitch and fill" technique.
Think of doing a waltz.... In with your electrode, make the arc - hot and in close, a SLOW 1, 2 (welding time) - pull off 3 - 4 and let cool,
Again 1 - 2........3, 4....
It's mostly in the timing, and position...
You can sort of vary the 1 - 2, 3 - 4, into 1 - 2 - 3, 4 - 5 or 1 - 2, 3 - 4 - 5, to bias the heat input and cooling off times in either direction.
It's all in the technique, and once you have your torch angle, for the relative position, then the rest is all in the timing...
Too much heat, you burn through and too much cooling, you get a cold-ish slaggy run.
When you get the timing sorted out - the rest is easy.
Another option is to get a TIG torch and run that from your (I assume) AC transformer cored welder....
Cheers
Daggles
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1st September 2008, 01:47 PM #20Member
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- Feb 2006
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- perth
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- 37
welding thin stuff
I've been away and have just read the posts. Better late than never.
If you lay down a decent tack about every 10mm, knock the slag off and then weld as per normal, you will find that the weld will come out very neat, and if you have got it right no blow outs. It sounds like a lot of mucking around but it is much neater and quicker than grinding endlessly.
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1st September 2008, 01:53 PM #21
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1st September 2008, 09:33 PM #222-legged animal
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1st September 2008, 09:44 PM #232-legged animal
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Thats pretty well how I've always welded thin stuff,for the last 40 years anyway . Still I always like to learn new things wouldn't mind finding out a bit more about the "semi vertical down '.
Sometimes I have 3 or 4 runs going at a time , alternating between them . less heat builds up in any one spot and can get more done in the same time . The "3-4 or 3-4-5-" or what ever that you wait for the weld to cool can be spent doing a "1-2 "on another spot
hooroo mat
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8th September 2008, 06:36 PM #24Member
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Ferndale
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- 78
Has anyone tried using flux cored mig wire in a standard arc welder?
seems like a cheap way of getting thin sticks!
curious
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12th September 2008, 10:48 PM #25machine tech.
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
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- victoria/hughesdale
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- 64
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- 5
I have welded the car exhaust systems using the old arc welder its a bastard to do.
I think it about 1.6mm i tack first then graduly increase the lenght of the weld..
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