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Results 16 to 21 of 21
Thread: Colouring Pine
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4th September 2008, 09:17 PM #16
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5th September 2008, 08:56 AM #17
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It is a good idea to seal all around for sure especially in a kitchen situation . two coats on the bottom should seal it up ok or if you like put the same on as the top but dont bother with the steel wooling on the back.
If the top is not a laminated design (lotts of strips glued together ) then it would be a good idea to glue some cleats accross underneath in a few places where they will not get in the way of fixing it in place , just to resist any tendency to warp as pine can warp all on its own.
How many coats it takes is hard to say depends on how thick each coat is applied and how absorbant the wood is , how much you cut back . I use a sanding sealer first which cuts down on the need for extra top coats its like using a primer in normal painting .
I think by three maybe four coats should bring up a nice even well sealed surface.
You just got to be guided by what is happening on the job surface. If you get to the third coat and it looks good and is nicely sealed then that is ok. If it still looks a bit uneven and not sealed then keep going.
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5th September 2008, 09:29 PM #18
If you are spraying poly do not spray it outside!!!
Poly is a slow drying finish, its exposed to dust and crap(insects love it) for a longer time and can not be repaired without a fair amount of work(and waiting several days for it to cure fully first, with the exception of denibing).
I do it differently to RetroM, I dont bother with sanding sealer as polyU is its own sealer... poly sticks to fresh poly very well.(after several weeks it does not, it must be keyed by sanding)
1st coat goes on thinned out 20~50% this acts as the sealer, if the grain has raised or a lot of dust has settled a very light sand with 220grit+, if not dont bother with sanding it.
2nd coat thin by 10~15% and flood it on(within reason!), you'll find polyU works just like enamel car paint if you put it on thin it will not level out and look crap(with spraying and brushing, rubbing on is different).
Once again if its rough with dust a very light sand with 320g+ or steelwool it over just enough to remove the inclusions.
3rd coat is a repeat of the 2nd.
A few hints
PolyU flows out so put it on thick
Runs can be repaired by letting it cure for at least 48hrs in hot weather(longer in cold), then wet rub it back flat using a dash of detergent in the water, you must then recoat it.
Cheap poly and turps= cheap die in 2 yrs finish
Never ever overwork/overspray it(like enamel), after 2~3 minutes do not go back over what you've already coated, if brushing it will leave very ugly brush marks... if spraying it may orange peel(dimples due to surface tensions).
1 seal coat and 2 top coats is plenty, it should be .5~1mm thick!....................................................................
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6th September 2008, 07:41 PM #19
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6th September 2008, 08:54 PM #20
RM I meant to reinforce what you said about using poly outside, sorry if it didnt come out that way
Yes Carbothane is touch dry in 1~2hrs but thats a long time when dust and insects are concerned.....................................................................
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8th September 2008, 10:39 AM #21
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