Staining and Danish Oil

[jimmyjames]

Hi all. Planning on danish oiling over the top of watyl craftsman stain as a change from poly. This is my first go both staining and oiling.

The can says to remove excess with a clean cloth, how much rubbing is required? I seem to be picking up heaps of stain on the cloth, am I using too much?

To oil, the can says use 0000 steel wool for first coat but I've heard fibres can get into the grain and rust over time. Someone told me to use the green scrothbrite type scourers instead. Is this correct?

Is the oil ok over the spirit based stain?

Any help appreciated!

[DarrylF]

I wouldn't use danish oil over stain, but then I don't use stain at all Danish oil is designed to penetrate the wood, which is kind of incompatible with staining really. I'd probably be checking on the can and with the manufacturer.

Here's what I generally do with Rustin's Danish oil:

* Sand to 320 grit
* Apply the first coat - usually with a cheap paintbrush or a foam brush. No need to be neat, just cover it all well. Leave until it's just getting tacky (5-10 minutes) and remove the excess with paper towels. It doesn't take a lot of rubbing - just wipe off the excess.
* Apply another 2 coats the same way in the space of a day or two.
* Leave it for a week.
* Apply the final coat, flooded on with a brush. While it's still very wet, rub the whole thing down with a Scotch pad (green one), wait until slightly tacky then remove the excess with paper towels.
* Wait at least a day, then apply Neil's traditional wax with a green Scotch pad and buff off.

You can use 0000 steel wool in place of the Scotch pads.

[SteveI]

Jimmy

I've used Cabots stain under Dainish Oil successfully - and yes a lot of the stain does come off on the rag. If it ends up too light just put another coat on.

If you leave it too long you will not get much stain on the cloth, but will end up with a patchy finish because parts of the stain will be dry.

You will also get some stain coming off on the rag when you put the oil on.

Check on the BB - you will find a lot of people advise against the steel wool because of the rust and chance of strands getting caught in the timber - many like the Scotchbrite pads.

[ClintO]

Are you talking about the standard dishwashing Scotchbrite pads as from the supermarket?

[DarrylF]

Are you talking about the standard dishwashing Scotchbrite pads as from the supermarket?

Yep. Abrasive enough to knock off the dust etc without really cutting the surface. I like the genuine Scotch pads, but the bulk pack generic ones from Bunnies work just about as well.

I think the issue with steel wool is when it's used on raw timber. Steel fibres can become embedded in the grain and rust later. I like it for some things - like final waxing around fine details, in corners etc.

[j.stevens]

I've been using Cabot's teak interior stain on Tassie Oak then four or so coats of their Danish oil, sanding between coast with 1200 grit wet and dry. I use a top quality brush for both of the above.

Does anyone have an opinion on this procedure.

J. Stevens from Brisbane

[soundman]

On the matter of scochbrite pads.
the supermarket variety work however most specialist abrasives suppliers can supply you with a variety of grades of similar pads and othe related products.

The abrasives supply pads are generaly much larger (at least twice as big) and when purchased by the pack very much cheaper.

green is a medium grade, black is coarser ( mostly used by cleaners), maroon & gray are finer.

They have a vast range of uses round the workshop, wood finishing being only one of them. Great on aluminium.

cheers