Finishing Huon pine

[Wongo]

I want a smooth satin finish and it doesn't have to be tough. I am thinking maybe 1 or 2 coats of Danish oil or Tung oil then wax.

What would you do? Thanks.

[Ashore]

Have used danish oil and wax and the result was ok, usually I don't do anything just leave the huon a-la-natural but I only make small pieces. The gloss and satin finished pieces that I have seen in Tasmania most commonly in Hobart were usually sprayed with an esterpol but that takes away the natural smell which to me is the best part of huon and the end result is just another glossy finished bit of furniture

[starr]

I have had good results with Organoil Danish Oil on Huon. You use wet & dry sandpaper to apply and the finish is as smooth as a baby's bottom, but as with most Danish Oil, it is not high gloss, but I find it perfect for jewellry boxes and the like.

[RufflyRustic]

Hi Wongo,

I like using UBeaut's white shellac on Huon. I've found that a few thin coats gives the finish I'm looking for without blocking the huon pine scent.

cheers
Wendy

[LGS]

Hi Wongo,
I use Wattyl Scandinavian oil and UBeaut Trad. Wax. Gives a beautiful satin lustre to the Pine and highlights the subtle grain.

Regards,

Rob

[rsser]

To my taste an oil finish darkens the timber too much, and when you add the effect of UV over time you can end up with a dark honey colour.

Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and wax is my choice; white shellac would also be good as Wendy recommends.

[Chesand]

We brought some Huon Pine slices for coasters back from Tassie in April.
I did half with Organoil and half with U-Beaut Hard Shellac, both then waxed with Trad Wax.
Both methods darkened the colour and brought out the grain very well but the Huon smell is sealed in. The Organoil smell is not unpleasant.

[conwood]

Hi Wongo,
I now almost exclusively use Haymes Tung Oil which is a floor product. After 3 or more coats I use wet and dry 600+ with F&W Mastertouch furniture polish. Then polish off with rag.

Gives a great lustre and real smooth to the touch..stangely enough people comment on the touch.

oh, and this product is easily light sanded later for refreshing with a new coat.

cheers,
conwood

[echnidna]

why don't you try a different finish to what you're used to Wongo?

[Chipman]

I tried polyurethane and it took ages to dry... it seems like the oil in the Huon Pine was slowing it down.

Do you have to clean it with acetone before you use polyurethane or lacquer on it?



Regards,

Chipman

[Scally]

Scott I think all the suggestions say that any oil will do a good job.

I put 3 or 4 coats of Rustin's Danish Oil on this knife block.
I just mop it on and buff it off.
The oil darkens the Huon a bit which is good because it brings out the subtle grain a bit better.
Over time Huon darkens. I doubt if you can stop this, short of keeping it in a dark cupboard.

The oil finish feels good too.

I often add about a third estapol to the oil to add a bit more shine and keep it a bit longer.

On the knife block I used some u-beaut wax to make it look shiny when I gave the block away.

[ubeaut]

White shellac, EEE then Traditional. Can't go past it in huon, it's beautiful.

Gives an amazing sheen to the timber and a sensual look and feel that has to be seen and felt to be believed. I kid you knot.

[I_wanna_Shed]

White shellac, EEE then Traditional. Can't go past it in huon, it's beautiful.

Gives an amazing sheen to the timber and a sensual look and feel that has to be seen and felt to be believed. I kid you knot.

Thanks Neil,

Looking at the product page for the white shellac, do you apply it following the sanding sealer instructions for it?

Thanks,
Nathan.

[echnidna]

I'd follow Neil's advice on this Wongo, why use a mundane finish