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26th April 2008, 07:27 PM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 5
Clueless deckbuilder -help please
Hi everyone,
I've just joined but have been using the forum over the past few months to get advice on my deck building issues, so thanks for all the info provided. Without the forum I would have made a couple of huge mistakes.
I am finally at the timber buying stage. The deck is 8m x 7m . I am in Sydney, the engineer has specified F7 timber, some people are telling me that the joists should be hardwood to nail tighter with the hardwood decking. The deck will be braced, I'm not sure if that affects how it behaves. Is hardwood more susceptible to termites, in one section it will be very close to the ground. What is more durable? For the decking, around here merbau and spotted gum seem to be the most available, which is better?
Any contributions would be greatly appreciated.
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26th April 2008, 08:06 PM #2
I don't know anything about the Sydney area, up here in North Queensland, we use treated pine for the joists and hardwood for the decking.
I think I would listen to the engineer, he probably knows what he is talking about.
WolffieEvery day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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26th April 2008, 09:10 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Hazelwood North, Victoria
- Posts
- 0
We also use Trated pine. Rough header treated pine. (rhtp).
Don't use hardwood as it is suseptable to termites and here in vic you have to treat for termites so by using treated pine RHTP (kiln dries treated pine) this is H2 treated which is termite treated. It also rots unless covered with melthoid.
By using f7 RHTP you just have to make sure you span them the wright spans. Sure f17 will span further but depending on the span only means a couple of extra holes.
I doo all of my decks with treated pine but merbau decking. Span the joists at 400mm though.
Regards
JAMC
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27th April 2008, 12:28 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2003
- Location
- brisbane
- Posts
- 200
I'm a bit old school with timber decks and prefer to use hardwood joists, I recon they hold the decking down a bit tighter. Having said that I've just finished a deck using treated pine joists they're certainly a lot easier to work with and cheaper. If you do use pine make sure you get the 65 mm helical twist nails. How much clearance from the ground have you got? I think 150 mm is the minimum.
I prefer to use Austalian hardwood for the decking I think it lasts better and is a bit more ethical than Malaysian rain forest timber.
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27th April 2008, 07:21 AM #5New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 5
Thanks a lot guys. I'll go with a treated pine structure as termites are an issue around here. The decking choice will be a tussle between my conscience and budget.
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27th April 2008, 12:15 PM #6
Why is he clueless
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27th April 2008, 12:51 PM #7
Use the twist nails to put your decking down too, pre-drill and hammer manually so they twist as you hit, will never some out.
Interesting story, couple of months aqo I had to remove a 3-month old 50m² decking that was made by a halfwit. Imagine too thin joists, twisted wet sawn pine posts set into ground 300mm without concrete (and doubling as handrail posts), 10 framing nails punched into each join, bearers too far apart and decking boards nailed with bends still in them. The deck felt like a trampoline on top!
The owners wasted $7000 getting the guy to do it and then spent another $5000 to replace it with paving and gardens!
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28th April 2008, 08:11 AM #8New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 5
These question may show you how clueless I am, Dazzler.
Thanks for the advice.
Do I only pre-drill the decking?
How big should the drill bit be compared to the nail size?
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28th April 2008, 07:56 PM #9Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 45
- Posts
- 0
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28th April 2008, 08:11 PM #10
I'd build it for you but then i would have to
CHARGE YOU lol
Sorry to break it to your engineer but the timber is no longer F7 its now F5 and the code has been rewritten to suit
Sorry my humour is a little off tonight
cheers utemad
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29th April 2008, 09:01 PM #11
When we built our deck, we predrilled the boards to avoid splitting but drove the nails directly into the treated pine joists. Problem up here in the humidity is, the nails keep working themselves up off the boards so we replace them as we go with stainless decking screws. Expensive but worth it.
WolffieEvery day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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29th April 2008, 09:10 PM #12
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30th April 2008, 12:37 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- Sydney,Australia
- Posts
- 42
H2 treated is for termites but is really only intended for indoor use, but you can get H3 for near the same price, and that is termite and rot 'proofed', but only for above ground, anything that goes into the ground has to be/ should be H5 treated.
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30th April 2008, 01:03 PM #14
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5th May 2008, 09:16 AM #15New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- sydney
- Posts
- 5
Thanks for the great advice. Will definitely go with screws.
Engineers! $1800 to draw the footings for a deck and he didn't know the codes.
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