Patching villaboard after window removed

[SkyHook]

I have had a 600h x 1200 w window removed from my bathroom.

I am planning to patch the stud wall inside, by putting in a section of villaboard, then trying to make the joins invisible.

All I know is to attach the new stud material as accurately as possible to the existing, so the new board buts up neatly against the old.

Any tips greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

[Lockie]

Tapering the edges of the board will help when you start flushing the joins
some guys use a grinder but very dusty and not really recommended
a good file or rasp should do the the job for the size you want.
tape your join and fill
2nd coat flushing compund is available at hardware shops and a trowel will complete the job

[rod@plasterbrok]

To hide the join you will have to fully trowel the area in the same manner as I trowel the patch in this video except your area is bigger. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM"]YouTube - Repair a hole in plasterboard or drywall ceiling part one[/ame] (see all 3 parts)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho"]YouTube - Repair a hole in plasterboard or drywall ceiling part two[/ame]
Last part
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM"]YouTube - Repair a hole in a drywall or plasterboard ceiling part 3[/ame]
The main problem with finishing off this type of patch is a hollow between the 2 joins that stands out when painted. This is inevitable regardless how you prep the join to be filled it is just the nature of taping the join and filling over the tape.

The best way to fill this up correctly is to fill the center between the 2 joins and use a 4ft spririt level (or other straight edge) to screed the plaster off level. When it has set scrape back and coat using a cross trowel method as shown in the video.

Cheers Rod

[SkyHook]

Thanks everybody,

I will follow all advice

Cheers

P.S. Is it my imagination, or is the currently available Villaboard thinner than what is in my 15 y.o. house?