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Thread: Attaching shower screen
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4th April 2008, 03:30 PM #1
Attaching shower screen
I need to attach a frameless shower screen in a bathroom. Instructions call for 8 holes to be drilled into tiles. I don't want to break tiles so are there any alternatives to drilling and using plugs eg silicon ?
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4th April 2008, 03:47 PM #2
Not really. I wouldn't trust silicone in that situation. Get yourself a decent masonry bit and you should be OK. Put a bit of masking tape where the hole is to go, mark the position on the tape and then drill. The tape helps to stop the bit slipping around.
I installed heaps of these things and never managed to break a tile, so I reckon you'll be OK. Just take your time. Don't put too much pressure on the drill."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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4th April 2008, 04:14 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 274
Installing shower screen
You can buy a special drill bit from Bunnings for drilling glass and tiles. I have used it very successfully and it will not break or crack the tile. Definately you should affix the glass supporting brackets to the floor and wall with stainless steel screws. Assuming it is a solid masonary wall, make sure you get the plastic plugs below the tile or there is a chance the tile could crack around the hole when you tighten the screw. You can just drill out the plastic plug a bit using the same tile drill bit if u cannot knock it in far enough. I will not comment on best way of fixing to hollow walls.
CheersJuan
"If the enemy is in range, so are you."
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4th April 2008, 06:12 PM #4
Yes there are,
We often use a bright anodized channel 18x18x2mm (for 10mm) fixed to the wall in which we silicon in shower panels. A panel installed in this way will easily hold a 500-600mm 10mm door.You see no bolts or clamps and can locate your fixings at tile joints.Never had a door drop yet in 10 years.
You MUST use a quality silicon like V60.
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4th April 2008, 07:12 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- Sydney-south
- Posts
- 333
Mate, get yourself a small automatic centre punch, from bunnies or supercrap for around $5, mark out your holes and use the punch to score it, otherwise on some tiles the drill bit can wander across the tile.
The punch wont crack a tile it will leave a little divvit about 2mm in diameter in the glaze.
If your super worried, you can start the hole or even drill through the tile half way with the drill on normal function instead of the hammer function, then go for broke!Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter
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5th April 2008, 12:59 AM #6Owner Builder
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Altona Vic
- Posts
- 66
Riley, sorry to bother you, but do you have a pic you could show of this channel? I'm having trouble imagining it...
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5th April 2008, 08:14 AM #7
No bother happy I can help.
Have a look here :
http://www.crlaurence.com.au/Product...9.html?Origin=
Same sort of idea we often use CRL as all their products are high quality and there is a good depth of knowledge to draw from on technical matters. Other suppliers channels may vary in dimension slightly .
BrettLast edited by Riley; 5th April 2008 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Further comments
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5th April 2008, 08:43 AM #8
I will add,Most screens you see have these wall brackets (Or similar) :
http://www.crlaurence.com.au/Product...1::9401::10662
As in all building work there are pluses and minuses to all approaches:
Wall brackets:
Pluses:
a) It is a positive fixing and there is no chance of pane moving.
b) The carpenter can complete the whole job in a day with out going back as you are not relying on the silicon to set.
Minuses:
a) Cost, you have more holes in glass and the cost of the clamp and more polishing of glass.
b) Waterproofing ...a minor point but you are drilling holes in it
c) Risk of tile breakage
d) Holes on glass is just one more thing that can go wrong , if you do use clamps and the tiling is done ...order your clamp position and subsequent hole to align with a tile joint.
Channel:
Pluses:
a) Neater ,If you install channel prior to tiling with an 18mm section after the wall tiles go on you will see only 6-8mm of channel. No clamps and no silicon sealing between tile and glass to go black.
b) Glass measuring and ordering is simplified and more forgiving
c) Done correctly just as strong
d) Less risk of tile breakage
e) Less compromising of water proofing
Minuses
a) Requires prior planning of screen design and co-ordination of trades
b) Can be done in one trip but better in two
c) You cant use Bunning's off the shelf silicon and you must ensure total encapsulation of glass
Hope this helps
Brett
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7th April 2008, 10:16 AM #9
I suppose it depends on the look you're after too.
"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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7th April 2008, 02:17 PM #10
Thanks guys, drilled 4 holes and none cracked. I had tried to drill through some of the tiles (not attached) to see if my drill bit was up to it and they kept cracking, obviously they are more sturdy once they've been glued and grouted, however it did take around 10 or so mins to drill each one, only sped up once I really leaned into them and yes it was a brand new Ramset masonry bit. I recently bought the GMC rotary hammer drill which by the way is selling for $49 now at Bunnies but it only comes with 3 big bits. Would have tried that if I had the right bits.
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