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Thread: Replacing a single brick
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5th February 2007, 03:07 PM #1Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Replacing a single brick
I need to replace a single brick in a brick wall. The wall is double brick, so I don't have access behind it. I have a bag of premixed brickies mud and this is my first time laying bricks. Any tips on applying the mortar and fitting the brick?
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5th February 2007, 03:20 PM #2Registered
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I assume you havent taken the brick out yet.
You can get a plugging chisel from Bunnies to chip away at the mortar around the brick, or just go for the kill and smash the crap out of the brick and then remove the rest of the brick with the plugger.
I prefer the second option myself.
Make sure all the old mortar and brick is removed before you even think about putting the replacement brick in.
Even the smallest piece of old brick or mortar will cause you grief if left in.
Read the instructions on the premix as how to make the mortar.
Get a small trowel of mortar and put it in the hole as the bed joint, if you put too much in you wont be able to get the new brick all the way back as far as it should go as the mortar builds up behind the brick as you push it back.
Butter both ends of the brick. Have a look here. www.brickwork.net.au
Turn your trowel over so the handle is underneath as in the picture, sit the brick on the trowel and insert into the hole, now slide the brick off the trowel.
Make sure the brick is level and flush with the other bricks.
Get a thin stick or even the plugging chisel and use it to ram some mortar into the top bed of the brick.
Simple.
Al
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5th February 2007, 04:04 PM #3
I wouldn't listen to Al, he knows Jack Sheet about bricklaying. He's a fricken brain surgeon.
Photo Gallery
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5th February 2007, 04:56 PM #4
You can tell he is just pretending because that damn trowel has never seen a days action in its life. Or is it your Sunday best trowel Al?
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5th February 2007, 05:05 PM #5Registered
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Its still even got the barcode on the bottom of it.
Al
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5th February 2007, 05:43 PM #6
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5th February 2007, 06:10 PM #7Registered
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I bought it from a local market, the guy had 4 of them for $5 each so I bought the lot.
Al
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7th February 2007, 12:45 PM #8Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Thanks Al, I took a look at your web site and noticed that a furrow is created in the bed before laying the bricks. What purpose does this serve and is it required for extruded and common house bricks?
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7th February 2007, 04:40 PM #9Registered
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Good point I shall have to include an explanation on the site.
The furrow allows the brick to bed down into the mortar, rather than just sitting on it, it also makes the mortar go the full width of the brick therefore eliminating any holes.
It also makes laying much quicker and I would assume save mortar.
It is used with all types of bricks.
Al
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29th February 2008, 09:01 PM #10
mix mud like thick toothpaste, borderline dense dog poo.
Place 2 stacks of small pieces of 5 mm CFC at each on bed. 10mmhigh =2 x 5mm CFC
place mud in between small stacks 30mx100 deep. slide brick in
If trowels too dear place cement on top of left over CFC 250mm long by 150mm wide
push mud into joint with a piece of 5mm CFC off the CFC board with cement on it into joints till full and flush
Flush with wiping dry carpet
mess round edges with "damp" not wet T-shirt
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2nd March 2008, 05:03 PM #11
The thread is over 12 months old, so I assume the brick is laid.
BTW, what is CFC?
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2nd March 2008, 11:04 PM #12
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2nd March 2008, 11:22 PM #13
My apologies yes compressed fibre cement. I don't like the word asbestos. It scares people.
As long a the CFC = 10mm then placing the brick with the small pieces of CFC for the brick to sit on stops it dropping when filling the mortar joints up. It doesn't matter what thickness of the CFC is as long as it ends up close to 100m You can even split the CFC sheet to get close to the 10mm packing height. Even jamming in above stops the brick moving around when the mud is being pushed into the bed joints.
Flipping a trowel upside down with mud underneath to place in a pug hole isn't everyones cup of tea.
Using CFC helps and even when using as packers above preventing dropping when the mud shrinks. Wood rots, CFC doesn't.
Yeah I didn't realise the post was so old. Got a little excited didn't I. Its always good reference for the future any rate. Someone put the keywords in a search engine and find it.
Are you a Knave Mick?c2=a2+b2;
When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.
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2nd March 2008, 11:29 PM #14
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2nd March 2008, 11:31 PM #15
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