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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9

    Default cornice question

    Hi all,

    I have a Victorian cottage which was renoed in the last 15 years or so which means plasterboard but no cornices for that slick look. I am trying to return it to an original look and want to reinstate the cornices.

    Issue is, while the walls look great, when I put a straight edge against them there are slight curves in and out.

    Question is: If I put a dead straight cornice up against them are there going to be a few gaps which I will need to fill, or is there a bit of flex in the plaster (I doubt it), or should I go with an mdf cornice that has a bit of give but none of the appeal?

    Cheers,
    Raz

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Munruben, Qld
    Age
    83
    Posts
    0

    Default

    I am no expert but I would think there would be some flex in the cornice to allow for this kind of thing. I mean hey, how many walls are 100% true.
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cronulla, NSW
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Raz,

    I have just done similar with fairly wide cornices (210mm). As John says, there is a bit of give and flex over the length of the cornice- any minor gaps can be filled with cornice adhesive and wiped with a wet rag as you go. When painted white this is undetectable.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    781

    Default

    It is a simple thing to successfully fill any reasonably small gaps with cornice cement of flexible caulk.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Thanks very much. That should settle my fear.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    Like the others have said, except I might add that if you have a section of wall that dives in giving you a gap that can be noticed, it is not that difficult to float the wall under the cornice to get rid of the gap. You can apply the cornice adhesive to the wall and use a straight edge like a spirit level to screed it level. You only need to come down the wall 600mm or so. Just blend it it inthis is much better that the bottom member of the cornice waving in and out.

    Do it in 3 or 4 coats, between coats scrape it back level. If you use a spirit level and run over what you have filled the high points that need scraping will pick up a black mark from the metal of the level, showing you exactly where to scrape back.

    Cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    mayland W.A
    Posts
    137

    Default

    Are you talking gyprock cornice or plaster glass ?
    gyprock cornice will bend more than plaster glass cornices .

    i have just re done the old cornice at my place so that the newly created kitchen would have the same cornice on each wall.
    it look great well worth the effort and extra couple of dollars compared to the stardard quarter round stuff .

    by the way if you are using plaster glass be sure to seal it with plaster glass sealer before you paint it .

    Rob

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    136

    Default

    If Dr Razzles reno was cornice-less 15 years ago, I think he could have another problem with the new intended cornice adhering to the paint?
    What say you Rod?
    Jack

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    You can get around that Jack in various ways, perhaps the most secure method is to screw as well as uing cornice adhesive.

    I would never stick cornice up straight onto a painted surface. If it is plasterboard I run a few knife cuts barely throught the surface paper layer and peel away most of the painted board above the cornice line.

    There are many other ways, but the objective is to get a solid fixing ether mechanical (screws) or cornice adhesive to an absorbent or rough surface surface where it will grip.

    cheers
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I expect that fixing the cornice to the wall is my next challenge, I was considering roughing up the plasterboard in some manner so I might experiment with the knife approach. Thanks for the advice Rod. And cheers Jacksin, I am going to go with the plaster cornice and do some screeding (thanks again Rod).

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