2-pack poly, tongue oil, or what for a floor?

[Cassandra]

OK guys..........you seem to know what to do most of the time. What do we put on a parquetry floor that is 45 years old and still in great shape? I say 2-pack poly. Others say tongue oil. Hubby says ordinary estapol. And if it is the estapol or the 2-pack........do we go for gloss or satin or can you do gloss for the first 5 coats and satin on the top coat?
Hubby intends to do this TOMORROW. eeek! Is there any advice you can give us? Open to suggestions.
Thanks heaps,
Cass

[journeyman Mick]

You'll need to know what was on the floor originally. As far as I know the old 2 pack estapol ia not compatible with other finishes, not sure about th other options. Find a supplier who specialises in floor finishes and see what they say.

Mick

PS, tongue oil, isn't that what used car salesmen and politicians use?

[ozwinner]

OK guys..........you seem to know what to do most of the time.

Yeah right.

Al

[SteveI]

Mick's advice is the first one to follow - until you know what is there, you should not attempt to put another coating of anything on.

Tung Oil (correct spelling) will not go over Estapol.... and I think you will find the 2-pack advice says you should only apply to timber (ie sand off any previous coating)

The tung oil has the advantage of being able to be repaired if you scratch the floor (basically just wipe over with a bit more oil) - a scratch on the 2-pack will stay there until the next time you finish the floor (although it's pretty tough and not easy to scratch)

I had some 2-pack left over from a couple of stairs and put it on the timber handle of a couple of knives - it survived about 5 years of constantly going through a dishwasher (very very alkaline detergent) - so it is tough. (The stairs lasted about 10 years)

[Cassandra]

The stuff that is on there now is poly but I don't know if it's 2-pack or not. Even so, it'll make no diff since we will sand it back to bare wood anyway. Or can you ever go back that far? Certainly if it was oil I know you can only oil again. That sways me to the 2-pack (if I didn't like the oil I would have no option....... after using it once, I would have to keep on or rip up the floor.). With so much sand that comes into the house, I think we need the best and hardest protection. So I guess 2-paqck it is. Thanks
Cass

[Cassandra]

PS to Steve. Thanks for the correct spelling of tung oil. I was finding it hard to think of whose (which species, not which pollie!) tongue might be the oiliest!
Cass

[Zed]

I've heard that if you give the floor a light sand and then a good wash out with turps then its just like a new naked floor - if this is the case - my personal perference is a single pack clear polyurethane - I use cabots which I find quite good.

Turps stinks and sanding is dirty though.... I'm sure your husband will love it....

cheers

[Cassandra]

Zed,
Ok, Hubby has done the sanding back to bare wood and put on 3 coats of Cabots single pack poly. But the coats have the finish of an orange peel. He tried a roller from the hardware store (Bunnings) and then a squeegy thingy like the one you might clean your windows with ( I won't be using that one for windows now though) and still it comes up like an orange peel texture. Today we bought a lambswool mop thing to try. He sands after each coat but still looks not as it should. Any hints? This kitchen renovation is taking forever and he is doing it all himself, working hard. Good thing he's retired and I'm still working. At this rate he'll be doing up the house for the whole 7 more years until I can retire!
Cass

[ozwinner]

Zed,
. But the coats have the finish of an orange peel.

I think youll find this is from silicon, maybe the floor was originaly polished with silicon.
And the dust from sanding has contained silicon, which is now in the floor boards.

Al

[Cassandra]

OZWINNER,
Hubby sanded it then cleaned it all first with the vacuum then with mineral turps. What else can he do?
Cass

[Dusty]

Should of hired a tradesman to do the job.

It always works out less expensive, less time consuming and a lot less frustrating.

[Theva]

Cass,

Give it plenty of time between coats or use a room heater, it is too cold.

Regards,

Theva

[ozwinner]

Im no expert of PolyU, but I have had the exact same thing happen to me on a coffee table I made.

And now the PolyU has started to come off in strips, this table was made 2 years ago.
When I finished it, I did notice the orange peel look, but thought nothing of it.

At the time I used to wax my router table top with Mr Sheen, that was before I learned that Mr Sheen contained cilicon.
I didnt know then that silicon was the mortal enemy of wood finishes.
Now all product sontaining silicon are banned from my shed.

As for it being too cold, I have applyed PolyU in all types of weather conditions, and have had only the one problem, as mentioned earlier.

There are some finishing experts on this BB so maybe they can help.
I wouldnt go putting on any more coats of PolyU, until you find the cause of the problem.

Al