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4th February 2008, 07:32 PM #1
Jarrah and Redgum Joinery Finishing
Hi guys,
Im just playing around with different finishing options for my interior Jarrah window reveals and the exterior and interior of the front doors, which are to be solid Redgum.
I have given the Jarrah reveals 2 coats of Sikkens HLS in Mahogany colour, The Reveals have become quite dark, and the finish is a little tacky and matt for my liking. The HLS looks to have excellent penetration, but it is not available in Neutral colour, the only HLS natural has a pine stain to it.
I dont want to apply any clear coating over it, as in my experience in the past any clear coating applied on a high sun area has always broken down, so the idea of resanding the clear off to re do the windows in time doesnt appeal much.
I would ideally like to make the finish a little smoother and not quite as dull, my intention is to go over the HLS with a rub on rub off coat of Kunos oil, as this has a slight gloss and is turps soluable, like the HLS.
Im also going to try a test of 50% HLS and 50% Kunos oil on some Jarrah, and see what happens.
Has anyone here had much experience with the HLS products over an extended period? or does anyone have an opinion about my concept of the kunos oil over the HLS? Is there any reasons it wont work?
Theres no point asking Sikkens themselves about it as they will say it cant be done and try and sell me supernatural or TS interior.Turning perfectly good timber into perfectly good dust!:2tsup:
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5th February 2008, 01:09 PM #2
65 views and no reply!
Turning perfectly good timber into perfectly good dust!:2tsup:
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5th February 2008, 03:41 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jul 2006
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- Durong Qld
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You may have to move this question to the windows/doors section of the home renovating section of the forum (or even ask the boaties).
Now you have 81 views and one reply, (or two if you count your own!)
Donna
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5th February 2008, 06:19 PM #4Happy Feet
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Armadale
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- 887
No, your on the right forum, but I am not familiar with the products your using.
All is not lost, theres an expert refinisher from your side that posts almost daily, be patient, I'm sure he'll help out.
Astrid
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7th February 2008, 10:32 AM #5Happy Feet
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Armadale
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- 887
looks like everones still on holiday in the states, or no-one else here has a clue either.
sorry i mixed up and thought that you were there too.
As i said before not familiar with your product but give your idea a go on a practice piece, after all experiment is the mother of progress.
Astrid
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7th February 2008, 10:47 PM #6
On both Western Red Cedar and Sydney Blue gum frames we have used danish oil first then followed up a few days later with marine grade varnish on the inside of the frames. Anything outside gets paint only. The WRC was last done around 10 years ago and still looks quite good. Not sure if this is of any help but the original advice came from a painter for what its worth.
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10th February 2008, 12:03 PM #7
Cheers.
I have continued my tests on different mixes and different types of application methods- all on scraps of redgum and Jarrah. Remember the HLS is Mahogany colour as its the closest to the Jarrah timber colour, and all the samples have been sanded up to 240 grade paper. Below is the tests i have done and my comments.
Remember, this test is for a durable finish Indoors, that can be put on over the top of itself without the need of sanding off a clearcoat. Ideally its for a more natural oil look than a high gloss high maintainence look. Cost is no option, i want the best low maintainence finish possible. The tests have included-
Option 1-03 coats Sikkens HLS, brushed on left to dry-
Good thick coverage and good durability but covers almost all grain, makes a kind of rougher surface, even after timber was sanded with 240 pre coating. Looks a bit ordinary indoors. Good resistance to sunburn, but it doesnt look much like natural timber anymore.
Option 2-3 coats Sikkens HLS, brushed on, rag off after several minutes-
Better grain exposure, but a dull finish. smoother since it was ragged off. A lot nicer finish but not really sealed.
Option 3-2 coats Sikkens HLS, brushed on, left to dry, then 1 coat of Kunos/Turps mix rag off-
Not bad, had to lightly sand the timber before the Kunos coat as the HLS makes the surface rougher, but the Kunos gave it a mild sheen and seemed to seal it off well.
Option 4-1 Coat Sikkens HLS brushed on left to dry, 2 coats Kunos/Turps Mix rag off-
Plenty of grain exposure and shiny, but the HLS gets partially wiped off with every coat of Kunos/Turps Mix. would lack durability to sunburn.
Option 5- 3 Coats of mixture 50%Sikkens HLS, 25% Kunos Oil and 25% Turps rag off-
Not bad, products mixed very well together, but ragging it off drops the durability of the finish. Nice and shiny, good colour. looks like a nice furniture type finish. Plenty of grain exposure
And the Winner- Option 6- 1 coat Sikkens HLS, Brushed on left to dry, then 2 coats of mixture 50% Sikkens HLS, 25% Kunos Oil and 25% turps rag off.
This gave good penetration for the sikkens HLS with the first coat left to dry, then the Sikkens Kunos Turps mix gave it a nice smooth finish, without compromising the HLS coverage and penetration. I had to lightly sand the timber with a scoth bright pad after the HLS coat, but the adding of the HLS to the Kunos turps mix meant bettewr penetration as well as a nice sheen to the finish. moderate Grain exposure, much more natural looking and smooth to touch. Looks well finished and will be easy to reapply in the future. not sure about moisture resistance, as this was not really high priority on this test, more about sunburn and reapplication.
All the samples will be left outside now for me to monitor their performance in the weather.
I'm open to any opinions on my test, hope this helps someone else!Turning perfectly good timber into perfectly good dust!:2tsup:
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