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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

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    If its a Rheem, dont replace it with a dux, connection points will be different. Reece have a heater called everhot, made by rheem but a little cheaper and will fit straight in. Being as old as the heater is the connection points MAY vary a little.
    BTW there is a Reece at Kirrawee now if you didnt know already on Oak Rd.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sutherland, Sydney
    Posts
    124

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    Thanks for that, I'm about to ring a plumber now. Glad I'm sitting down....

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

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    C'mon, we're not that bad!! There is plenty of us in the shire, just be wary of a certain mob on the outer edges of the shire (engadine/heathcote).
    Ill take a stab and say that living in Sutho with an 80L HWS your in a unit???
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sutherland, Sydney
    Posts
    124

    Default

    Hey,

    No, in a house actually. Why a 80L was installed I have no idea. We manage and have only run out of water on a few occasions in the shower.

    I've been waiting for a few to return calls, but tradesman will be tradesman I guess. Thats not being stereotypical, its just TYPICAL.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    139

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    Just a point of clarification. I would not recommend that you have an 80L tank in a normal household. Peak rate power means expensive to run. I'm only advocating that since you want to keep the capital cost down and are moving.

    In any other circumstance I'd strongly favour solar, gas or at least off-peak electric. Continuous electric systems are the last resort option normally - good when others won't fit etc or when you're about to move. Cheap to install but absolutely the most expensive system to run.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    south australia
    Posts
    0

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    just one quick note... im guessing that this rheem unit is one with a anode in the top??? most of them do have a anode designed to corrode first rather than the tank itself.. during my years at work i have come across 2 leaking units with both turned out to be because of the anode rusting out as well as the bung itself thus causing a leak.. might be worth checking by popping out the top plastic cap.. you might get lucky

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sutherland, Sydney
    Posts
    124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sdrob View Post
    just one quick note... im guessing that this rheem unit is one with a anode in the top??? most of them do have a anode designed to corrode first rather than the tank itself.. during my years at work i have come across 2 leaking units with both turned out to be because of the anode rusting out as well as the bung itself thus causing a leak.. might be worth checking by popping out the top plastic cap.. you might get lucky
    Hi mate,

    Thanks for that - there is a plastic thing on the top middle that has a bit of water around it, although it is also dripping around the 'lid' if that makes sense, but I guess it could be coming from the anode under the cap and dripping from there. So its just a matter of prying off that rubber centre on the top? No problems will arise from doing so? (ie, a big leak I can't stop?). Thanks - theres a chance that could be the problem.....

    Oh, by the way, one got back to me $795 installed for the 80L Rheem. The 'cheaper' Aquamax was still $780, so for the sake of $15, even though I want to save a bit, we will still be here at least 6mths so I might go for the rheem - never like things I've never head of (however not having heard of a HWS doesn't mean much - I don't exactly replace them often!!)

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Something to remember for your next place is to check the anode before there's a leak. A good anode will very much slow down the overall corrosion of the tank and extend its life greatly. At about $45 for the anode it's a lot cheaper to replace that than to let it run out and the tank start to rust.

    Anodes typically should be checked after 5 years. Shorter in areas with poor water quality. If it's severely corroded then it needs to be replaced in order to continue protecting the tank from rust.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sutherland, Sydney
    Posts
    124

    Default

    Since we've had rusty water for 12mths or so, I have a feeling it might be past just replacing the anode.........

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