Fascia Joist Hanger Enquiry?

[ozizu]

Just wondering for a pitch roof pergola, i understand that some portion of a 140*45 truss will need to be cut to accomadate the angle it comes down into the joist hanger. I am just wondering whether cutting too much of it will decrease the strength of the timber piece, bearing in mind the facia beam attaching it to is 90*45. Is there any other way of attaching it without making a significant cut? Maybe I can place the joist hanger a little lower than normal to minimize the amount of cut i have to make.

Also i would like to know whats the best way to connect up all the trusses so they dont sag and move hile they are up there. I have heard of speed brace, or can i just connect a 90*45 just below the peak of the truss between each truss to stabilize it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[SilentButDeadly]

Without a diagram or photo this is tricky to help with....

However, you can possibly square the fascia end of the truss to butt up to the beam face and be fixed using a hanger. The cut portion of the truss can be strengthened by a nail plate or similar if required.

Frame brace (flat steel sold in a roll) is used in an X pattern on both sides of the pitch...over which you attached battens (70x35 MGP12 pine usually)....as temporary fix, use three or so lengths of battens temporary nailed through the trusses with the first truss braced to the ground...

[ozizu]

Without a diagram or photo this is tricky to help with....

However, you can possibly square the fascia end of the truss to butt up to the beam face and be fixed using a hanger. The cut portion of the truss can be strengthened by a nail plate or similar if required.

Frame brace (flat steel sold in a roll) is used in an X pattern on both sides of the pitch...over which you attached battens (70x35 MGP12 pine usually)....as temporary fix, use three or so lengths of battens temporary nailed through the trusses with the first truss braced to the ground...

Finally got around to putting some photos up as below

I do realise that speed brace must be used in a x formation to safely secure the trusses, but am concerned about the look of the steel thru my clear solarlite panels. Wondering if i can substitute the 70*35 battens for 90*45 battens and would be enough to brace it considering it is bigger in size. Simply put i dont want too much congestion when i look above me and i want to maximise the viewing area (instead of seeing steel and congested timber battens everywhere) above me but also make it safe.

I hope the pics have shown that the width of the area is small, in fact 2.8m wide with 83cm gaps between each truss. If i have to use speed brace, then i might be inclined to go for a classic creme solarlite panel which would also match my backyard colours, but would not bring as much light in even though the sun comes right alongside my colourbond fence. Bit of a headache but need assistance if possible.

[DvdHntr]

The speedbrace is for structural stabilty against wind actions. If you can provide enough stability another way than there is no problem.

I would use a series of purlins either under or over the top plate but they would have to be of significant size (maybe 70x35 on edge) and putting a ridge beam in next to the kingpost would be a good idea. Be sure to install triple grips on the trusses at the verandah beam and make sure the joist hanger has a strong enough connection at the other side.

So who designed the trusses?

[Dr - 307]

I do realise that speed brace must be used in a x formation to safely secure the trusses, but am concerned about the look of the steel thru my clear solarlite panels

Don't worry about the look of the speed brace. Once it's up and finished you won't be looking up. Better speed brace than heavy looking timber. When I built my verandah my father in law said "Why you put too much sekoority (security), look not nice". He also didn't like the look of the collarties I put up also. He didn't want any up on his verandah roof. Well, a year after I finished his verandah and tried, that is tried very hard, to install his gutter it became very difficult. Ever tried to install straight guttering on a curved fascia board. The roof started to splay. I got the gutter on eventually and he got me to put some collarties in but he has to live with a slightly curved fascia board.

Build it safe for your family and don't worry about the look of the speed brace. You'll forget it's there. You'll start noticing the cobwebs more than the speed brace and if it still bothers you just paint the sections of speed brace where it crosses under your battens in matching paint.

FYI my verandah is covered in Bronze Tint Amperlite. Speed brace? Forgot it's there.

Cheers,
Dr - 307.

[ozizu]

The speedbrace is for structural stabilty against wind actions. If you can provide enough stability another way than there is no problem.

I would use a series of purlins either under or over the top plate but they would have to be of significant size (maybe 70x35 on edge) and putting a ridge beam in next to the kingpost would be a good idea. Be sure to install triple grips on the trusses at the verandah beam and make sure the joist hanger has a strong enough connection at the other side.

So who designed the trusses?

Its a DIY job and noticed a lot of trusses being built that way so copied that style. Yes i did it myself and I realise now that maybe using 140*45 horizontal and vertical support was a big overkill and cosmetically made it look too clustered. Should have gone for 90*45 instead.

As for the beam connection gonna use triplegrips and an extra pyrda L brackets for extra support. Fascia beam is rock solid with brakcets and extra noggins secured well between each rafter to spread the load.

Inclined now to use the speed brace and bite the bullet and use only 70*35 timber for battens instead of 90*35. Also since i have a small width pergola, i can probably put 1 batten right up against gutter, 2nd one in middle and 3rd one very close to the tip of the truss. That way they are roughly 70cm apart and will minimise the overcongested look.

We all make mistakes being a first time DIY job, which i have realised that i have made a few already but not bad so far since i didnt know how to use a circular saw or attach the blade b4 this project. Lucky my dad persuaded me to buy a cheapie from bunnings instead of using a jigsaw. hehehe

[DvdHntr]

You haven't really overkilled. The trusses are top chord supported and so the top chords need to be quite large. They look good. Have you considered painting the nail plates or covering them with ply and gluing on bolt heads/nuts to make it look like an old style bolted truss?

My point was because the trusses are large they may not need too much in the way of restraint, which the speedbrace caters for. You would only really need the battens/purlins as attached.

[ozizu]

You haven't really overkilled. The trusses are top chord supported and so the top chords need to be quite large. They look good. Have you considered painting the nail plates or covering them with ply and gluing on bolt heads/nuts to make it look like an old style bolted truss?

My point was because the trusses are large they may not need too much in the way of restraint, which the speedbrace caters for. You would only really need the battens/purlins as attached.

I removed them off the roof and painted them on the floor including the nailplates. In terms of being large, I was more referring to not the top chords but the lower horizontal and smaller vertical piece.

In terms of bracing, being a very risk averse person i want to use speed brace anyway and i will paint it green. But ive noticed on your diagram that youve put in a purlin in the middle of the truss on the right hand side. Im assuming you would need one on the left also if i didnt want to use speed brace.

Also been advised to use self drilling screws to secure the battens making sure the screw completely wedges itself in the batton to avoid damaging the sheet on top, is this the best method? Also if am using speedbrace, i can afford to use the 70*35 battens. Can I place these battens with a height of 70 instead of the height of 35. Sorry if i didnt make myself clear but should the 70 or 35 side sit flush down on the truss?

[brittleheart]

Hate to be a party pooper, you say that the fascia is fixed to the existing roof rafters/trusses with brackets.
It looks like the new trusses are even extending to the hip of the existing house.
Have you considered the strength of the existing structure? It might be wise to check with the original builder or roof manufacturer if the additional load/uplift is OK.
My hunch is that the existing rafters need to be reinforced or doubled up.
Also note that the changes may affect the structural guarantee of existing house. (I have personally witnissed such problems).
Don't get me wrong, it looks great and will probably be OK. Just be aware of any future problems.
Regards, Peter

[DvdHntr]

But ive noticed on your diagram that youve put in a purlin in the middle of the truss on the right hand side. Im assuming you would need one on the left also if i didnt want to use speed brace.

The member is there to restrain the bottom chords against buckling.

You can use screws they are better but nails are easier. I was only talking about the restraining load for the nails.

The role of the speedbrace in your case is to transfer lateral wind loads. To the truss' support structure.