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Thread: Wood heater flue replacement
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22nd May 2007, 03:17 PM #16
You guy's would make a fortune in tassy.
Cliff super job.p.t.c
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22nd May 2007, 04:18 PM #17
The council made me isolate the outer flue from the (square) support structure up at ceiling height. This was not required in the installation instructions but, OK, OK, sure, no problem, tear it out and re-do it with a bit of a gap and some 3/4 channel. Suspecting such a development, I had not fixed the frame to the rafters properly. You did a nice job Cliff. Many happy warm nights. BTW, it gets cold in QLD???? Really? I thought it was a tropical paradise.
1st in Woodwork (1961)
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22nd May 2007, 07:15 PM #18
Back now, panic over.
The piece of tube in the cowl is a sliding fit inside the SS active flue pipe.
I have about 100mm for movement & currently the active flue fits about 40mm over the cowl piece so it can expand at least 60mm before it starts to push the cowl off.
Yeah Muzz, we are 865M above sea level, just below the clouds most of the time & just in the clouds some of the time.
Coldest during winter is 5° normaly around 11 or 12°Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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22nd May 2007, 09:20 PM #19
I recycled the one I had on the old flue 'cos it was only a couple of months old.
The old one leaked heaps, I must have poured 2 tubes of silicon onto it trying to stop it & when I ripped it off to put the new one on I found that the previous job had been done by a dill who didn't clean the roof properley before he glued it down with some tacky grey goop.
There was mould under it so it wouldn't seal properley.
The new one done right was working fine but when I mentioned it to Mick, he came up with the flashing idea.
Those 2 lengths cost me $72 & I reckon it is good insurance.
Sorry, I had to dash off & just edited the post that said I'd get back to you after I finished my coffee.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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22nd May 2007, 09:26 PM #20
It is covered in AS/NZS 2918:2001 (that you have to pay for )
See the link to the pdf in my first post....page 4, para 5 & page 7, fig.8
There should be 25mm of non-combustable packing between your outer flue & any combustable material if you intend to use it as a support.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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22nd May 2007, 10:17 PM #21
I totally, completely, thoroughly agree that flashing is the first line of defense/defence. One of the first things they teach in civil engineering school is that water goes downhill. Any encouragement you can give it is time and money well spent.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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22nd May 2007, 10:44 PM #22
While it's entirely possible to just use a dektite and not get leaks I've fixed enough leaky roofs not to place my trust in them or sealant alone. It's the only waY I'll do roof penetrations.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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23rd May 2007, 08:06 AM #23
My BIL installed a pot belly stove in his upstairs lounge and "dogged" the heavy steam pipe he used for a flue onto the rafters. Sort of zero clearance approach, very strong! That stove could be made to go translucent when stoked with coke. Also the steam pipe got a nice red. Very warm indeed. Even warmer the day the rafter caught fire and the fire brigade appeared.... But that was an extreme case I think.1st in Woodwork (1961)
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23rd May 2007, 09:07 PM #24
It is because of pyro's like him that we now have the standards.
We used to just have a 4.5" SS active & a 9" Gal outer that was screwed straight to the wooden boxing in the ceiling.
We could get our old Masport Fatso to glow in the dark too & it didn't even discolour the timber in the ceiling.
Now we have a 6" SS active, a 9" Gal inner & a 10" Gal outer & it has to have another inch of seperation from anything combustable.
It rained today & it hasn't leaked. (yet)Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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23rd May 2007, 09:37 PM #25Senior Member
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- Mar 2007
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Wood fired heater
G'day Cliff.
Where you when I lived near Millaa? I had to get a plumber to do mine as I couldn't afford a divorce.
Barry Hicks
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23rd May 2007, 10:12 PM #26
When did you live up here?
We are at Minbun, have had the place for a bit over 4 years now.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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2nd June 2007, 03:36 PM #27
And up she goes.
Only 18° outside, don't need it realy but I wasn't going to wait since I just finished it.
I does help to dry things out a bit 'cos we are in a cloud at present.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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2nd June 2007, 06:23 PM #28Registered
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- Aug 2003
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Theres nothing quite like a fire is there?
Just as long as its supposed to be there....
We lit ours last weekend and it will stay lit until 2025....
Al
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21st January 2008, 01:45 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
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- melbourne australia
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I know this is an old thread but I thought some of you might be able to answer a few Q's for me.
The guy who installed my wood heater flue (in VIC it has to be done by a licenced person) was some kind of silicone junkie. the stuff is everywhere and I'm sick of looking at his dodgy work every time I go on to my deck for a beer.
I'm going to remove the ugly angle bracing he used on the roof (not required as the flue only penetrates out about 1m), fit internal support brackets to the ceiling joists (as per the flue manufacturer's instructions) and replace the dektite flashing.
When the guy installed the flue he screwed the outer casing to the roof sheeting. I recall reading somewhere that you shouldn't do this but I can't recall where. Does anybody know if this is prohibited in the applicable AS? If so, I will need to remove his screws before I fit the new dektite.
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21st January 2008, 02:45 PM #30
I wouldn't join them together as the expansion & contraction of the roof sheeting would push & pull the casing around.
I don't know for sure as I don't have a full copy of the standard but if you look at my pics & the last 4 pages of this doco, the roof sheeting does not contact the outer casing at all.
The outer casing is fixed to folded metal brackets that are fixed to the roof frame underneath the roof sheeting.
In the old days, the outer casing was screwed/nailed/fixed directly to noggins in the roof cavity.
Now, under the standard, there has to be a 25mm (1in) minimum separation between the outer casing & any combustible material.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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