Turning Tools

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Wouldn't get much use then, I'm tipping...

I'm sort of glad this one was dredged up, 'cause I've just purchased a small cheap lathe and I'd like to use an old broken file as a turning chisel. So theoretically, if I'm taking very small cuts a well sharpened file will be ok without tempering?

I reckon so. IMHO it's only when a lot of stress, such as when you're cutting heavily or get a bad catch that they're a risk.

[kman-oz]

You can work brass with standard lathe chisels.

Well, I tried this with a HSS round nosed scraper and managed to take a small chip out of the edge when it caught on the brass No big deal, it ground out fine, but I'm not so sure I want to try that again! Perhaps when I have a little more experience with the lathe and I can better control the tool.

On the other hand, the sharpened file did a reasonable job without damanging the file or the brass

[wheelinround]

http://books.google.com/books?id=em2...E32Z0#PPA48,M1

[funkychicken]

Well, I tried this with a HSS round nosed scraper and managed to take a small chip out of the edge when it caught on the brass No big deal, it ground out fine, but I'm not so sure I want to try that again! Perhaps when I have a little more experience with the lathe and I can better control the tool.

On the other hand, the sharpened file did a reasonable job without damanging the file or the brass

I think he meant cutting not scraping

[Toolin Around]

Can't speak from explosion experience, but theoretically the notches forming the teeth tend to increase stress on the metal above what would normally be calculated. The term of art is "stress concentration factor." This is why airliner windows now have rounded corners, BTW.

I've successfully used old files as scrapers for hand turning soft metals such as brass and aluminium. Key is to grind the top face to the bottom of the notches from the tip to somewhat beyond the toolrest. This reduces a tendency to shatter.

Joe

You forgot the other key. Don't hang them very far off the end of the tool rest. If you keep the tip close the the edge of the tool rest you can turn anything with a file without fear of it breaking. The actual diameter of the project is irrelevant. How far you can hang off the end is something you'll have to determine with the files you have. A standard file I find break real easy in a vise... The type and condition of the timber will also dictate how far a tool can hang off the tool rest. Ironbark is going to exert a lot of force on the tool. Hitting a knot is hard on any tool so you'll have to keep that in mind also... Over all there should be a lot to worry about because you all wear a face shield don't you...

[joe greiner]

... Don't hang them very far off the end of the tool rest...

Good point. I'd restrict the cantilever to not much more than the final thickness of the file, ground as I suggested. And a face shield is one of the best investments available.

Joe

[Harry72]

I think he meant cutting not scraping

Yes I used my spindle gouge you must go softly and get the tool rest as close as you can, with the tip to shape then using the sides to scrape with the lowest angle possible. Polish with W&D to 2000g... Autosol for sparkle.