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Results 1 to 10 of 10
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18th July 2007, 01:31 AM #1
New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 6
Paving a sloping driveway.. from scratch
Hi All,
Cool website, this is my first post. I just bought my first block and am looking to put in a paved driveway.
The block has a fair slope back to front and a light right to left slope. For the drive I was planning to do the following:
* excavate to 150mm, dig out and fill soft spots.
Will a Bobcat/mini digger do for this?
Do I keep the natural right to left slope for drainage or do I level it?
*Fill with blue metal or road base/ Compact like buggery
What level should I fill to ?
*Add a level compacted layer of builders sand
* Pave -herringbone from road up -
*Add edging
* Sweep in mortar slurry and sponge off.
Should I run a grated drain down the right edge?
I have tried to do as much reading up before I got on here but chances are I sound like a dick. First time at diy.
Any help/comments would be great
Cheers
Becks
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18th July 2007, 09:47 PM #2
Becks, go the stencilcrete instead. I bought a whole bunch of pavers second hand from someone paved driveway after it slowly slid downhill. Herringbone is more stable but with the modern stencilcrete looks pretty good.
Cheers
Pulse
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24th July 2007, 09:41 PM #3
New Member
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- Jul 2007
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 6
driveway
Thanks Pulse,
I've got to do some pretty heavy duty work on the house/garden first so I think I'll leave the driveway surface till next year. In the meantime I'll dig it out and gravel it. what's the best thing to use? - blue metal/washout etc
Any suggestions?
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24th July 2007, 10:13 PM #4
Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- warrny
- Posts
- 18
hi there in my opinion dig it out and fill with crusha dust, a fine scoria... vibrate it, wet it, leave to dry and vibrate it again. thats if your going to leave it for a while that way it wont wash out to quickly as its packed tightly.
now if you are going to pave it in my opinion theres only one thing for a paving base and thats 90+mm of concrete...
for example my driveway will consist of - digging down 250mm, fill with 100mm of a hard packing scoria (this will allow for any movment below such as clay swelling etc and wont crack your concrete)
f82 sheet mesh, 100mm of concrete. now if all measements are correct i should be 50mm below garage floor height and footpath height.
my pavers are 40mm thick so i will lay them on 10mm of mortar and after a few hours its will be done properly and should not crack.
i have done over 150sqm all the same, all footpaths, pergola, clothesline, tank stands etc all the same way and well worth the money if you ask me.
im using 40mm bluestone pavers 250x250mm roughly $80/m from bam stone
hope this helps
Tim
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24th July 2007, 11:24 PM #5
New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 6
Thanks Tim,
Knowing me I won't get around paving/concreting it for a while... espescially if the crusher dust holds up. When I dig it out do I dig it out level? Should I run a gated drain down the side or will the crusher dust drain naturally down the slope?
Becks
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25th July 2007, 07:39 AM #6
Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- warrny
- Posts
- 18
depends where will all the water end up? if it goes near the house for sure put a drain in after you concrete it.
just dig 200mm or how ever you are going to do it on the angle from garage to footpath to wat eva slope the foot path goes to.
if its a temporary thing there is a good packing good drainage 40mm (roughly) limestone rock for driveing on, alot of driveways are like that around where i am. i cant really suggest much more untill i see a pic.
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25th July 2007, 12:36 PM #7
Absolutely, saw many paved drives end up looking like a disaster area after a few months because they weren't laid on concrete. I had a few drives put down in Sydney on some investment properties and tried to keep costs down by paving over compacted, crushed rock and had to take up the pavers in the first twelve months and put down concrete base.
Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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25th July 2007, 03:00 PM #8
New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 6
Here's a pic
Thanks guys,
Here's a pic of my block. looking from where the house will go. It's going to be a fun job!
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29th July 2007, 11:37 PM #9
this is well worth the money in the long run. Especially for a driveway that is constantly getting vehicular traffic, over time you will get depressions from the wheels with a c/rock base laid in sand.
You can still lay them on sand if laid properly over a slab but mortar will be the strongest choice. You could also go stencil crete as well, all depends on if you want the real paver look. Every man and his dog has pattern concrete these days.
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14th January 2008, 12:11 AM #10
New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Bunbury
- Posts
- 2
Paving
How s it going
cut and filling is good as long as you have good sand or soil to begin with if there is to much of a slope you may need retaining you main thing will be compaction I would suggest limestone rather than blue metal unless your getting it for free of course but if thats the case you should wash loads of sand into it as well as compacting it herrine bone is always good but the best version is the 45 deg keeps it tighter.
forget about washing slurry in you ll leave loads of stains and never get it off if you wanna put something into it put a dry mix of sand and cement 3 or 4 -1 and brush it in the bricks cants be damp or it will stain too when you have it brushed in sweep it thoroughly as for the flow you screed it to where you want it always away from your house if you want a drain pipe it to a small pit of shay cloth filled with blue metal
anything else let us know
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