Best way to wall-mount cupboard

[czzer]

Hi all

I've got a nice solid cupboard unit which I want to mount to the wall of my colourbond shed. It's about 2m x 40cm x 75cm and was originally wall mounted in an office, so has a nice thick back panel.

I know there's probably a hundred different ways to do it (steel, wood, vertical studs, horizontal members etc), but was wondering if there was a consensus on the "best" method, given there isn't a lot of "structure" currently in the wall.

I don't expect to be putting anything too heavy in it, but at the same time I don't want to be worried about the mounting not being strong enough for whatever ends up in there.

I've attached some photos of the wall I'm wanting to mount it to.

Thanks for any ideas!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

With so little structure, I'd run a couple of vertical studs, checked out/fastened over the channels.

Actually, I'd look at framing out the wall with studs 'n noggins, insulate and line it. Being a colourbond shed, odds are good that sooner or later you'll want to insulate the whole shed and you may as well allow for this now than have to remove/replace the cupboard later...

(I wish I'd done mine as and when I could. Now it's too late; it'd take a week of hard manual labour for me just to find one of my walls, let alone work on it. )

[czzer]

I was intending to line and insulate at some stage anyway, so I guess it would be a good idea to do that one area ( or maybe the whole wall) now.

If I did go with the vertical studs only, do you think 2 would be enough? I was thinking more like 3 or 4.

When you say "checked out/fastened over the channels" do you mean a single floor to ceiling stud fastened to the "face" of the beams at the ceiling and the channel at mid wall, or running the stud against the outer colourbond wall with a "joggle" (I'd call it a doubler) over the mid-wall channel? Sorry...I'm a bit of a newbie with all the terminology

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The more studs you use, the more places to anchor it. I'd use at least 3, I was being a bit loose with the language when I said "a couple." The std. spacing for studs is 600mm between centres... it makes fitting the lining sheets easier, as the joints will line up on the studs.

When you say "checked out/fastened over the channels" do you mean a single floor to ceiling stud fastened to the "face" of the beams at the ceiling and the channel at mid wall

If I was just going to put up some studs to hang the cabinet, I'd simply run them to overlap the ceiling beam and the middle channel, and check 'em out (errmm... make "cutouts") where they pass over the channels. (see the pic)

Attachment 64674

On the other hand, if I was going to frame the whole wall for lining/insulation then I'd build go full height studs with top and bottom plates. Plates are "horizontal studs" bolted to the floor and roof beam, BTW.

In both cases, checking them out serves several functions; it gives you somewhere simple to fix the screws/bolts, keeps the wall fairly thin so you don't lose a lot of floor space and, in the first case, it keeps the studs from "sliding down" the wall. Because the stud work isn't load-bearing (ie. it's not holding the roof up) it's OK to cut into 'em like this... just don't cut more than half their depth. It'd be a good idea to add a row of noggings in the areas both above and below the middle channel if you do this.

(So much for simply mounting a cupboard to a wall, eh? )

[czzer]

Ahhh...that makes sense now. Thanks Skew.

That centre channel it pretty thin, so I don't know if I'd trust it on its own to support the bottom of the studs. I think I might go the full frame option.

My biggest concern with the full frame was losing too much floor space, but you've solved that problem too!

One more question though...If I were to check out the studs, what would I do with the top plate? Would it be OK to use a 4x2 on edge? (assuming I use 4x2 for the studs with a 2" check out) This would make it easier to attach to the roof beam, but is is an acceptable way to make a frame?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

One more question though...If I were to check out the studs, what would I do with the top plate? Would it be OK to use a 4x2 on edge? (assuming I use 4x2 for the studs with a 2" check out) This would make it easier to attach to the roof beam, but is is an acceptable way to make a frame?

Yes, it should be right.

[czzer]

Thanks Skew....

[Dickiejim]

Hi CZZER

I've been working on lining my shed for a few months, Mine is similar to yours although it does have timber purlins instead of the tophat type. I have just screwed 70x35 pine flat onto the purlins, and then you can fix whatever cladding/ lining you like onto these studs. At a previous house I had a shed with tophats and did it this way and it worked great. When you are fixing wall hangings they can be screwed straight into the studs.

I have attached a couple of photos of the work in progress which may give you some ideas.

Good luck with the project
Richard

[czzer]

Interesting option, thanks Dickiejim.

How do you think mounting "on the flat" would compare strength-wise to Skew's "checking out" option? Purely from the point of view of the cupboard mounting that is...I'm sure the wall itself would be equally solid either way.

My thinking would be that regular "side on" studs would be more rigid for the loads the cupboard would put on it, but would the checked out section negate that benefit?

[Dickiejim]

I've placed the studs on the flat for ease of construction, what I did in my last shed was to place a piece of timber along the back of three studs and bolted this to a very heavy wall mounted tool cupboard. I had no problems.

I weigh about 120 kilos( I know I'm a bit of a lightweight) and I give everything the old monkey swing to test its strength. I am sure some engineering types may dispel my designs, so I offer no guarantees

[czzer]

That's a good idea with the backing timber Dickiejim. Thanks for your input.