Results 46 to 60 of 78
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29th December 2007, 08:47 PM #46
AT those zip bolts dont have plastic threads they are metal and very fine guage threaded... super tight using very little pressure!
They have a chuck key like a drill chuck to be done up with a cordless drill... zipped up....................................................................
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29th December 2007, 09:32 PM #47
I recon its the only way to go, considering that the timber expands differentially. As far as the gap goes when I was cutting mine with a small maketa I frupped up as the blade wasn't set correctly to 90 deg anyway i do have a gap that goes from 0 -.1mm. I can't do much about it except drink copious quantities of alcohol so I don't notice it.
BTW I don't think there is a finish (for timber) that allows hot pots going on.
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29th December 2007, 10:40 PM #48
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30th December 2007, 09:22 AM #49
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30th December 2007, 09:25 AM #50
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30th December 2007, 07:03 PM #51
Sorry Harry I didn't see your response about the Zip Bolts.
They must have changed then to metal (for the reasons I mentioned) after I had bought mine.
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30th December 2007, 09:30 PM #52Hammer Head
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 191
DGI whos website was posted in this thread sell there 2 pac finsh for timber bench tops, not 100% sure if it will take a red hot pot but it does take a fair amount of abusing.
I have also seen that wet glass epoxy used but it was clear coated with poly over the top to protect it from being damaged. That was for a commerical bar application.
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31st December 2007, 05:30 AM #53
thanks. that'll do me.
says....
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD width=160>Heat Stability </TD><TD>Unaffected by boiling water or heated plates and is heat stable to approx. 400°F (200°C)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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31st December 2007, 07:34 PM #54
I did an L-shaped kitchen benchtop about 15 years ago from 8 x 1 1/2 inch (Tasmanian) celery top pine. The join was mitred and there were loose tongues glued between the planks. I was not satisfied with the mitre - I didn't cut it accurately enough - so I routed a half inch trench over that join and epoxied in a batten. The bench was then sanded and given six coats of two-pot polyurethane on ALL surfaces. Light rub-down and two more coats every five years or so. Looks great and there have been no problems.
Nextdoor neighbour had a blackwood butcher block bench top professionally installed at same time at exorbitant cost. It cracked in about six weeks, was repaired many times and replaced twice. After about five years he had it replaced with a corian benchtop, and still loves it.
Not definitive, but food for thought.... or more confusion.
Cheers
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1st January 2008, 03:05 PM #55
Sounds like its not all about who does the work either. That even if you do the right thing it might still crack on you. Dependent on what the wood wants to do I guess.
I wonder if blackwood has a bad rep for this sort application.
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1st January 2008, 04:58 PM #56
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1st January 2008, 06:27 PM #57
ta Bob.
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1st January 2008, 08:55 PM #58
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2nd January 2008, 07:36 PM #59
Be good too to hide cracks should they appear later too.. Won't be able to run the router all the way to the edge of bench though due to the wall....chisel out that little bit by hand I spose. oh well. see what happens.
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11th January 2008, 09:05 AM #60
the boss still insists to dump the full mitre idea all together cause of potential movement problems.. Says butt, and mason mitre it to continue a edge profile around corners. Makes me wonder why that link provided above said its not recommended to use them ? ...
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