Shed door

[Wood Borer]

Burn,

If you are going for the barn door you can use dovetails for the braces. I have done this on gates before and they turn out pretty good in looks and functionality. You will probably need to make them by hand as the jig is more for edge to edge type dovetails.

If you want the ship lap look and security, consider having two layers of shiplap with a sheet of metal in between to provide a barrier for the crooks. This will also make it a fire rated door if the metal gauge etc complies with the standards.

- Wood Borer

[seriph1]

thanks for the pics..... perhaps consider ripping or routing grooves in the ply to emulate the shiplap - it adds a process but removes another and achieves the barn-door effect. Also, I feel too that hand cut dovetails would be the way to go, but then I would probably use a single piece of ply(grooved both sides) and mirrored pine frames on both sides to achieve the look..... I guess all this depends on how much effort you want to go to before actually using your shed to make the stuff you really want

[Bob Willson]

Hey Burn

You are confusing me. In one post you are going to use 17mm ply and in another you have specified 7mm ply. Which is correct?

[burn]

Sorry Bob.

I sat down and did some add up (after someones comment about the door depth) and 2 x 17 + 19 seemed a bit too deep - especially if I had to add shiplap onto the outside.

I think I will do the internal door's frame in 100 x 19mm, put 7 to 10mm ply on the inside and put the shiplap directly onto the frame on the outside. Then edge the sides of the door with some hardwood - butted to be under the shiplap, but slightly rebated when covering the internal ply.

I'll also pull my finger out and get down to the local library to see what books they may have.

Burn

[journeyman Mick]

Burn,
that's going to be one big, heavy door. Have you considered having a pair of doors instead? That way the frame and hinges will be less stressed and for general access you will only need to open half the doorway. It will also mean you can make the door frames a bit lighter. A lot of the older houses round here had framed and ledged doors around 800 to 1000 wide and used 3/4" boards on 7/8" framing (19mm on 22mm).

Mick

[glenn k]

So you are talking a door that is going to finish up about 55mm thick? That is a hell of a weight to swing using a pine frame. I would tend to go for a hardwood frame and also edge strip the thing all round with a hardwood, rather than finish it with more plywood.One other thing, is the plywood of marine quality, or at the least waterproof?

I don't know about all ply wood factories, but one that I new of made all their ply with the same glue because it was cheaper than changing the glue. Their marine ply was far more expensive because of the marine tax on it. This was the only difference.

I think pine would be too soft to hold screws with a door of this weight as Bob says hardwood trim.