How many of you have "mirror finish" tables...

[RichardL]

Hi Richard, yes they are my own designs. I like the coffee table the most. The only thing I would change on that would be to use square stainless steel instead of round in the 10mm reveal between the top and the table frame. I think at the time I used round stainless because that was all I could find.

The hall table is a little chunky IMHO.

The timber used is Redgum with Tas oak burl veneer inlay on the hall table and solid curly Vic Ash on the coffee table.

The 'grey' panels in the coffee table are 6mm sandblasted glass which the back is then sprayed with a silver automotive lacquer.

cheers for the comments.

Hi Matrix
thanks. Cool use of different materials. I think the curly Ash also looks great. I wonderd if it was curly maple. In any case, I don't know if I can get either over here

It is a bit hard to see the 'reveal' between the top and the frame. Is that just sitting in a routered channel between the 2?

[martrix]

Hi Matrix
thanks. Cool use of different materials. I think the curly Ash also looks great. I wonderd if it was curly maple. In any case, I don't know if I can get either over here

Don't let living in NZ stop you from getting nice figured timber. I'm sure you have some cool native timbers there if you look hard enough. Probably also have a few Eucs.

You can get almost anything these days from anywhere and delivered to anywhere. To me its pretty much a global community now. The only difficulty's being with non-english speaking countries, only because my Mandarin, Spanish, Italian etc aint much chop.

Very easy to get nice wood from the U.S. through Ebay.com. You will have to check NZ customs/quarantine requirements though.

It is a bit hard to see the 'reveal' between the top and the frame. Is that just sitting in a routered channel between the 2?

Its actually just a rebate created by a build-up of timber strips over the entire frame that the top sits on. No routing. Clear as mud?

[jez]

Tom your problem is you are using danish oil and its crap. Dosnt matter how many coats and your effort, you wont get a flawless gloss finish.

Use Wattyl (only wattyl) Scandinavial oil and flood the top and wait half an hour to soak and flood it again, then wet sand it going through the grits from 400# up to 2000# or 4000#
Very Important NOT to wipe off excess inbetween grits as the slurry is the important part (also acts as a grain filler) Wait only a few minutes before moving to the next grit. And when you put a new grit on the ROS wet the paper before you start to sand. When you get up to the higher grits there isnt as much oil left and you will be buffing with friction/heat from the disc. After the highest grit you can buff with a clean soft rag or go one step further and use EEE and one of them swansong mops to polish to mirror finish.

Best part is it dosnt take long and dirty dusty conditions wont effect the final finish. I have seen tops done over 3 months ago and they still have there depth and shine like they were just done. And the best bit if it gets dammaged its just a simple matter of another coat of oil and a 2000 or 4000# and bingo, back to perfect.

This is a brilliant method of finishing shown to me by a former member of this forum, and in all the years of trying to come up with a simple method that is nearly perfect, this is the best method by far i have used, and will only be doing furniture this way in the future.

Forgot to add, im at an advatage as im ROSing with the worlds greatest ever finishing sander, the 150/3

Lignum (?)

Would you mind saying what the "worlds greatest finishing sander" is? I'm not sure what the 150/3 is?

Thanks

Jez

PS This is my first 'post', did I get it right?

[Groggy]

Lignum (?)

Would you mind saying what the "worlds greatest finishing sander" is? I'm not sure what the 150/3 is?

Thanks

Jez

PS This is my first 'post', did I get it right?

The 150/3 can be seen here.

PS - post is fine