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  1. #31
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    Our method of installing a join in a bench top was to also have a few biscuits to help keep things flush.

    So a bit of yellow glue in the biscuits and silicon on the rest, then clamp it all together with the bench top connectors....very strong and reliable., and yes you can still have your curve.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  2. #32
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    You sound very confident Matrix. Glad someone is.

    Just heard of some disaster stories in the past.

    I'll just blame you eh if it all ????s up.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    But as I said above, probably talking to an experienced cabinet maker is the way to go on this, too much effort to waste on a simple error.
    well, My boss is an expert cabinetmaker (no doubt about it from his work), and he says its not worth risking and to just butt it.

    Theres just so many opinions, and experences. Maybe I should have just gone for the man made shyt afterall. Bit too late now. Timbers on its way.
    This is where its coming from if interested. http://solardry.com.au/

    What product do you blokes think I should finish the top with ?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post
    You sound very confident Matrix. Glad someone is.

    Just heard of some disaster stories in the past.

    I'll just blame you eh if it all ????s up.
    No worries, you're a whole state away.

    The disaster stories are probably because the process was done incorrectly.

    Here is some reading for you.

    http://www.dgi.com.au/bench1.html


    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post
    I can't find it. But are your saying both your benches are cut at mitres? Then you've got 2 x 22.5 mitres in between?...epoxied up ?. Wondering how wide and thick your bench is. And what timber.
    Na its not on here as a WIP thread... its a current WIP!

    Its 650mm wide by 40mm thick jarrah 8m in length in a U shape, the two corner piece's have a 22.5° on each side so the 2 pieces on each side still are square shaped slabs. Shaping the corners and scribing(made up templates)to the wall is proving to be tricky but it should look real nice when finished.
    There will be no glue... it would be impossible to move a top of this size if you glued them up, I guess it would weigh about 300kg, the corners will be held together by zip bolts.

    Available from Ray at Elraco's
    ....................................................................

  6. #36
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    ta. That mitre looks nice. (matrix)

    So what would you do with my splashback ?

    How much of a gap between the bench top and the wall ?...2mm or something.

    Tiles come down, and how would you seal it ?

    Just got to get my head around whats 'good enough'. I don't want that seal cracking from some kind of movement. uno.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by apricotripper View Post

    How much of a gap between the bench top and the wall ?...2mm or something.

    Tiles come down, and how would you seal it ?
    No more then 2mm, got to allow for shrinkage.

    Leave tiles 2-3mm short of bench and use a flexible sealant, like coloured silicone.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ's Timber View Post
    No more then 2mm, got to allow for shrinkage.

    Leave tiles 2-3mm short of bench and use a flexible sealant, like coloured silicone.
    yep, what DJ said. The tiles will probably end up being around 10-15mm off the wall so I would aim for around a 5mm gap from the benchtop edge to the wall. Also means its easier to fit if your walls are badly out (less material to remove from the back edges of the top).

    A good flexible sealant will move with the timber.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry72 View Post
    Na its not on here as a WIP thread... its a current WIP!

    Its 650mm wide by 40mm thick jarrah 8m in length in a U shape, the two corner piece's have a 22.5° on each side so the 2 pieces on each side still are square shaped slabs. Shaping the corners and scribing(made up templates)to the wall is proving to be tricky but it should look real nice when finished.
    There will be no glue... it would be impossible to move a top of this size if you glued them up, I guess it would weigh about 300kg, the corners will be held together by zip bolts.

    Available from Ray at Elraco's
    yeh, sounds kinda heavy. I bust my guts lifting 300x50x5000's kwila planks on the saw with another bloke....so that lift sounds like 4 blokes at least eh. you can keep that. Goodluck with it.

    And with your previous mitred jobs. No complaints ?

  10. #40
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    " And with your previous mitred jobs. No complaints ?"
    Errr nope... this is my 1st and only ever kitchen, I dont intend to make another kitchen so long as I live... I'll make the doors for people but thats about it!

    I got 5 commissions in the pipe line waiting because of this dam kitchen
    ....................................................................

  11. #41
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    thanks guys.

    One last question. sorry..... what finish would you use on the bench top....and does one coat on the underside and 3 coats topside sound good ?

    Thinking of something pretty hardy. Something she can put hot pots on maybe.

  12. #42
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    I used 3 -4 coats of Cabots poly Gel to avoid drips. I actually cheated and used weathershield paint underneath ( allowing for the overhang of cource) because it dried quicker.
    After 3 years its scratched... but I think I will leave it another year befor doing another coat.
    FWIW go the mitred corner with connectors under. Becareful with the connectors its a fine balance between not tight enough and splitting the timber. You should also make sure that your cut out for the sink is 200mm min away from the mitre.


    I used these connectors because of the speed but the drawback is the plastic threads burr a bit when you are trying to get some good tension.

    http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=571

  13. #43
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    Default benchtops

    Caeserstone is sounding better all the time
    Juan


    "If the enemy is in range, so are you."

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb View Post
    I used 3 -4 coats of Cabots poly Gel to avoid drips. I actually cheated and used weathershield paint underneath ( allowing for the overhang of cource) because it dried quicker.
    After 3 years its scratched... but I think I will leave it another year befor doing another coat.
    Ta mate. whatever I put on, I'm thinking of just spraying it on. Got a compressor now. Can you put hot pots straight on it ?...Want something really hardy uno.

    FWIW go the mitred corner with connectors under. Becareful with the connectors its a fine balance between not tight enough and splitting the timber.
    ......I wonder if the whole process (just quietly) is considered acceptable, because its convienient for the cabinetmaker to do it this way ? ....I'm just still a bit worried about these mitres. I know its considered ok by the pro's and I'll do it, but the principle still worries me. Especially after I've got a really nice finish down on top all I need is 1/2mil gap to appear and it'll look shyt. who knows.

    I used these connectors because of the speed but the drawback is the plastic threads burr a bit when you are trying to get some good tension.

    http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=571
    I thought they looked a little plasticty too...bit too clever. Didn't mention it to spare Harrys feelings (sniff) ...Maybe Harries better at using them. But I'm guessing that Jarrahs weight will dictate things. Trying to get the other ones DJ showed earilier.

  15. #45
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    If you can't get any of the ones I showed you, I can post some up to you. Got a few spares laying around, they even come in a bag with 3 in it including the biscuits. Just PM your address and they're yours.

    Another alternative is to cut some thread rod to length and use washers and nuts after you've squared one side of the hole.
    Cheers

    DJ


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