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28th December 2007, 04:01 PM #31
Our method of installing a join in a bench top was to also have a few biscuits to help keep things flush.
So a bit of yellow glue in the biscuits and silicon on the rest, then clamp it all together with the bench top connectors....very strong and reliable., and yes you can still have your curve.I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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28th December 2007, 04:07 PM #32
You sound very confident Matrix. Glad someone is.
Just heard of some disaster stories in the past.
I'll just blame you eh if it all ????s up.
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28th December 2007, 04:22 PM #33
well, My boss is an expert cabinetmaker (no doubt about it from his work), and he says its not worth risking and to just butt it.
Theres just so many opinions, and experences. Maybe I should have just gone for the man made shyt afterall. Bit too late now. Timbers on its way.
This is where its coming from if interested. http://solardry.com.au/
What product do you blokes think I should finish the top with ?
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28th December 2007, 04:26 PM #34
No worries, you're a whole state away.
The disaster stories are probably because the process was done incorrectly.
Here is some reading for you.
http://www.dgi.com.au/bench1.html
I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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28th December 2007, 07:45 PM #35
Na its not on here as a WIP thread... its a current WIP!
Its 650mm wide by 40mm thick jarrah 8m in length in a U shape, the two corner piece's have a 22.5° on each side so the 2 pieces on each side still are square shaped slabs. Shaping the corners and scribing(made up templates)to the wall is proving to be tricky but it should look real nice when finished.
There will be no glue... it would be impossible to move a top of this size if you glued them up, I guess it would weigh about 300kg, the corners will be held together by zip bolts.
Available from Ray at Elraco's....................................................................
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28th December 2007, 08:04 PM #36
ta. That mitre looks nice. (matrix)
So what would you do with my splashback ?
How much of a gap between the bench top and the wall ?...2mm or something.
Tiles come down, and how would you seal it ?
Just got to get my head around whats 'good enough'. I don't want that seal cracking from some kind of movement. uno.
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28th December 2007, 08:19 PM #37
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28th December 2007, 08:26 PM #38
yep, what DJ said. The tiles will probably end up being around 10-15mm off the wall so I would aim for around a 5mm gap from the benchtop edge to the wall. Also means its easier to fit if your walls are badly out (less material to remove from the back edges of the top).
A good flexible sealant will move with the timber.I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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28th December 2007, 08:35 PM #39
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29th December 2007, 01:35 AM #40
" And with your previous mitred jobs. No complaints ?"
Errr nope... this is my 1st and only ever kitchen, I dont intend to make another kitchen so long as I live... I'll make the doors for people but thats about it!
I got 5 commissions in the pipe line waiting because of this dam kitchen....................................................................
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29th December 2007, 06:16 AM #41
thanks guys.
One last question. sorry..... what finish would you use on the bench top....and does one coat on the underside and 3 coats topside sound good ?
Thinking of something pretty hardy. Something she can put hot pots on maybe.
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29th December 2007, 12:21 PM #42
I used 3 -4 coats of Cabots poly Gel to avoid drips. I actually cheated and used weathershield paint underneath ( allowing for the overhang of cource) because it dried quicker.
After 3 years its scratched... but I think I will leave it another year befor doing another coat.
FWIW go the mitred corner with connectors under. Becareful with the connectors its a fine balance between not tight enough and splitting the timber. You should also make sure that your cut out for the sink is 200mm min away from the mitre.
I used these connectors because of the speed but the drawback is the plastic threads burr a bit when you are trying to get some good tension.
http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=571
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29th December 2007, 01:46 PM #43
benchtops
Caeserstone is sounding better all the time
Juan
"If the enemy is in range, so are you."
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29th December 2007, 01:47 PM #44
Ta mate. whatever I put on, I'm thinking of just spraying it on. Got a compressor now. Can you put hot pots straight on it ?...Want something really hardy uno.
FWIW go the mitred corner with connectors under. Becareful with the connectors its a fine balance between not tight enough and splitting the timber.
I used these connectors because of the speed but the drawback is the plastic threads burr a bit when you are trying to get some good tension.
http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=571
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29th December 2007, 03:13 PM #45
If you can't get any of the ones I showed you, I can post some up to you. Got a few spares laying around, they even come in a bag with 3 in it including the biscuits. Just PM your address and they're yours.
Another alternative is to cut some thread rod to length and use washers and nuts after you've squared one side of the hole.Cheers
DJ
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