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Thread: old oak table
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17th December 2007, 09:06 PM #1Intermediate Member
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old oak table
advice needed , i have acquired a really old oak table that i want to restore ... i dont reaLLY know where to start in the way of finishes ..... any ideas
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17th December 2007, 11:22 PM #2Senior Member
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What do you want to do to the table?
To restore is too adjust, repair, and make corrections without removing the original finish.
To refinish, is too remove the coatings and the finish by stripping it down to the white wood, and then finishing the piece again.
Tell us the problems with the table.
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18th December 2007, 06:51 PM #3Happy Feet
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To restore,
Oxford concise
..2.(Attempt to) bring back to the original state by rebuilding, repairing, repainting,emending ect...
..3. reinstate to bring back to dignity or right
Sorry caz, just correcting a misconception.
Do you want this table to look new when its finished or retain the old look, but make it old but loved instead of old and neglected.
Send some pictures if you can or describe the problems that it has.
how old is it and where did you get it?
there is almost nothing that is unrestorable depending on how much time you want to spend and if your expectations are realistic.
Astrid
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18th December 2007, 08:58 PM #4Intermediate Member
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Sorry for the confusion . Its a really old well worked table somebody has obviously used it to work on , has a few nails banged in it . The grain is really used raised due to the high work on it.
all i want to do is keep its rustic well worked look but make it look loved.
i found it in an old factory i am renovating the factory has been disused for 20 years and before that was a government facility for disabled people i am a carpenter/supervisor so i get first pick
it just looks so rare ,, god knows how much i would pay for the top alone a solid piece of oak 2400 x 950 x 50
i love it 'will post some pics ( just charging the camera )
regards
David
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18th December 2007, 11:53 PM #5Happy Feet
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sounds ike you have a lovely piece there
First strip any old shellac this can be done with meths it will also wash off the dirt.
now assess any repairs that need to be done to the structure.
remove any nails or screws that have been put in to "strenghen " wobbles and assess loose joints. if the legs are loose now is the time to repair.
see how you go and get back.
astrid
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27th December 2007, 06:24 PM #6Intermediate Member
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ok cleaned the table and it came up really good and clean . some real bright spark has painted the legs in the past which is proving very hard to scrape off , i also repaired a damaged section with a nice piece of American oak looks really good. the table has separated where it is joined down the middle so will need to cramp that back up ( just thinking of using pva )
i will enclose some photos
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27th December 2007, 06:31 PM #7Intermediate Member
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pictures( i think)
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27th December 2007, 08:29 PM #8
Hi Cazdids,
Picture Info here
PS Infraview is very handy too.
cheers
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Twist One - Wooden Hinge/Latch/Catch/Handle
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Twist Three - Anything Goes
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27th December 2007, 11:41 PM #9Intermediate Member
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pictures take 2
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27th December 2007, 11:44 PM #10Intermediate Member
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haha just turn your heads
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28th December 2007, 01:11 AM #11Senior Member
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Looking good, my neck hurts now!
Do you have any Lacquer Thinner or Acetone, I think it could use a good after wash to clean it up the table.
Another sugesstion is after its washed down, is to use some Oxalic Acid to take out the yellow and lighten up the woods color.
The PVA should work if thats all you have.
Now, your moving right along, keep it up.
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28th December 2007, 08:30 AM #12Happy Feet
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get some stripper on the painted bits, then sand the whole thing to about 180 grit.
assess the stains. if its been used as a workbench there is probably oil on it.
get as much as you can off with turps and fine steel wool.
Then sprinkle talkum powder on and place an old tea towel over it.
use a fairly warm iron to absorb the oil.
this may get some of the oil marks off.
when you get this far post a close up pic of the top and i may be able to assess what next best step is.
deep black stains are usually caused by ink or iron and oxalic acid is good,
but dont wash down the whole top yet. place a pad of cotton wool over the black stain and dribble the oxalic into it so it dosnt wet the area surrounding the stain.
be careful not to contact or inhale. apparently its not as inoccuous as the lable suggests
Use your iron and a damp cloth to stream out dents and any markd where the timber isnt broken, this wont work when the fibres are broken like deep scars and scraches, but is good on dents.
leave the split until most of the prep work is done.
Ill keep an eye out for next post
Astrid
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28th December 2007, 10:09 AM #13Intermediate Member
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heat gun or paint stripper ? thanks for replys
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28th December 2007, 10:56 AM #14Happy Feet
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either or both depending on which works best on the type of paint.
Id probably use a gun first if youve got one but watch for scorching.
Paint stripper can turn the paint into a slurry, and if the grain is raised you can end up rubbing the paint in instead of removing it.
and speaking if scorching, are those black spots on the top burn marks?
Astrid
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28th December 2007, 11:23 AM #15Senior Member
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These solvents are safer.
If you have Lacquer Thinners or Acetone I would try either one of these first.
You could also add the Meths to the Lacquer Thinners, they make a good dye stain remover. Use a nylon scrubbing pad.
Paint remover is safer then using aheat gun, they usually end up burning the wood causing another problem for you.
I would rather you try sanding with different grits of sandpaper.
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