POPE Weeping Pipe good to lay under turf?

[mirz]

i think we both were talking about two different things

sorry i was talking about my inground piping setup, and you were about purple bin system. sorry my mistake.

[DaleBlack]

Hi Mirz,Planned Landscape Constructions, all

I think I will head past Turf and Irrigation and pumpworks on the weekend,

Mirz - can you remember how much per 50m roll the 13mm TechLine AS PC was?

Q1: Also what dripper spacing length did you choose ie 30cm,40cm or 50cm - I noticed the netafim website recommends the 50cm spacing for clay soils, which I have in the northern suburbs of Melbourne.

I will be laying it along a corner picket fence, 35m long, in a 600mm garden bed. Only Trees though. Each metre will be a silver birch or some such tree and then just bare soil.

Q2: Would i be best to run 19mm poly and then cut in a circle of Techline around each tree or snake Techline in and out around the trees as I go? Just concerned the snaking technique only results in only one half semi circle of tree roots being watered

Q3. Or should i use the micro tube spikes to deliver water to the tree roots
Q4. In garden beds, vegies etc not turf, how far down in a clay soil do you place the tubing? On the top under 1inch of mulch only or 15cm down below?

Cheers and Thanks

[Planned LScape]

Dale, just referring to your post above, the Turf & Irrigation store you are referring to, if it the one in Edgars Rd Thomastown it's no longer there (sold). Something happened I think business wise and the other stores are now over the eastern suburbs

[mirz]

Hi Mirz,Planned Landscape Constructions, all

I think I will head past Turf and Irrigation and pumpworks on the weekend,

Mirz - can you remember how much per 50m roll the 13mm TechLine AS PC was?

Q1: Also what dripper spacing length did you choose ie 30cm,40cm or 50cm - I noticed the netafim website recommends the 50cm spacing for clay soils, which I have in the northern suburbs of Melbourne.

I will be laying it along a corner picket fence, 35m long, in a 600mm garden bed. Only Trees though. Each metre will be a silver birch or some such tree and then just bare soil.

Q2: Would i be best to run 19mm poly and then cut in a circle of Techline around each tree or snake Techline in and out around the trees as I go? Just concerned the snaking technique only results in only one half semi circle of tree roots being watered

Q3. Or should i use the micro tube spikes to deliver water to the tree roots
Q4. In garden beds, vegies etc not turf, how far down in a clay soil do you place the tubing? On the top under 1inch of mulch only or 15cm down below?

Cheers and Thanks

yeah, Thomastown store is closed for good.

A0: i bought one 200m roles of techline AS 30cm one, it was $209.

A1: i used 30cm spacing, because i used top soil every where, paid $45 per cubic m from Roxburgh garden supplies, they also charge $15 cartage for my area. with top quality top soil 30cm spacing one is best (IMO).

A2: polypipe and techline combination is good where you run poly pipe all around and then run techline between them. if you are going in one straight line, better use only techline. but dont use techline if you are going to connect Spikes.

A3: IMO if its for trees and above ground then better use polypipe to carry water, and then use spikes.

Techline Anti Siphon (AS), is worth only if its going under dirt.

A4: for vegie garden i think 10cm under ground level would be good enough, no evaporation, and all water will keep root moist.

[DaleBlack]

Hi Mirz,planned landscapes, all

I went and bought some Techline (30cm dripper spacing 1.6Lphr) and assorted fittings. Please peruse images and offer any criticism as to my layout.

Flowrate at tap, 40-45L per min.

I was thinking of running 3 straight lines but only bought 2: 19mmTee>13mm connectors so used the looping system. I may still convert it to the 3 lines and also dig it under to 10cm.

The images are after only 15mins watering and I have since tightened the loops and elongated them further to try to eliminate dry areas. Working on the 300mm either side rule.

Problem 1
was that when i shut the system down water gushed out of the grey Air release valve, though i had it lower in the system after the poly leaves the brick wall opening and slopes downwards. Replaced directly under filter as per pics. Some water still comes out of it though as I shut it down. Is this due to the sideways mount? maybe I should have it still near the filter but mounted on an extension pole directly upwards.

Problem 2 - Constant filter housing leak, causing a water to spread out next to foundations and brick wall.

As per the image with the red arrow, there is a leak where the filter housing tightens. It appears the o-ring beneath the threaded housing is not working properly? Overtightened? its the same tensions as it left the shop, slight tighten did not help.

Should i go for another brand or just replace that filter back at the store?

Problem 3: I notice the flush valve operates quite violently at the start, hitting the ground around it with a high pressure. - Is this normal

Question 4: Those using a Galcon or similar, do you leave your tap fully open? or just a few turns to reduce pressure? (realise there is a press reducing valve further down)

Question 5: I kept the first line 35-40cm off wall - is ground soaking and having vegie garden next to the wall an issue? foundation/cracking wise?

[woodbe]

Dale,

Is one of those fittings after the timer a pressure reducer? If not, better grab one, they are inexpensive and will save problems later. I have some normal drippers that the town supply repeatedly blew off the line until I put the pressure reducer in.

In the photos, it looks like you have used some white tape on the irrigation fittings. They are designed to work without tape. I dunno if that is the cause of your leaks, but it might be...

woodbe.

[mirz]

nice work mate. yeah flush valve flush water on every startup. plus it throws sometime when you close your tap (i think its normal)

regarding water leakage, in my case it was between brass tap and filter/reduce, so i used white plumbing tape on brass tap's thread, which worked fine.

but for all other joints between plastic parts, there are rubber selas, and you need to tighten them carefuly, and water leakage will stop.

when i connected everything first time and turned my tap on, water leakage was almost in every joint, which made me nervous, but just needed to close platic joints so their rubbers seals will be intact properly.

i always open tap to full and there is no leakage anywhere. pressure reduce/filter take care of the rest.

i used small flags in every seperate area to see if water flow is fine. but its up to you.