Resoring victorian bricked in fireplace

[BeeMay]

Hi, my home was built in about 1910 and has fireplaces back to back across corner of room,bedroom and loungeroom.The bedroom one was easy as it had just been boarded over and we are using it decoratively only,though it has been checked and is usable..
The problem with the loungeroom fireplace is that it had been bricked in and a "warmray" combustion stove placed on the hearth in front of it,with the flue going in from the back of the warmray in through bricked up fireplace and up the chimney.
We have removed the warmray,all the bricks and concrete and have found that the old brickwork on the arch needs repointing,and the main hearth is missing.
What is the best way to get this fire up and running again as an open fireplace.We don't want the Victorian insert,just a grated fire.
do we need to put a "special" concrete on the floor of the fireplace? also do we need to use a fireplace mortar for the arch bricks? the bricks have been a bit damaged by us banging out the filling concrete and bricks,so is is it possible to render it and still use the fireplace,if so what with?the fireplace is very similar to the one posted in this forum at another time,but that writer did not want to actually use the fireplace,so hence my asking similar questions.

thanks in advance

[echnidna]

did they alter the throat of the chimney so the flue would go up past it?
a layer of put bricks on top of the concrete base

[BeeMay]

Thanks for your quick reply.I don't understand what you mean.
there is no concrete at the bottom of the fireplace,the hearth was removed,it is bare boards.there is 2 bricks in the centre of the fireplace that the elbow bend of the flu is sitting on.where is the chimney throat

[BeeMay]

photo 1 flu sitting on brick
2. up the chimney
3. full view,see no hearth LOL

[addo]

I don't know if the chimney will cope without the cast iron front. The throat seems different to those designed just as an open fire.

Repointing is done using a suitable mortar mix. There's a bunch of recipes, but try to avoid one that recommends proprietary products only sold overseas! As a rough guide, you could try 9 parts brickies' sand, one part off-white cement and one part plasterer's lime. The bricks need to be scrubbed clean and slightly damp, and joints raked out to about 3/8" deep before starting.

Regards, Adam.

[BeeMay]

hi, thanks for your reply.So I need to find a cast iron insert to be able to use it as an open fire? Is that because the hole for the chimney seems so small?

Is this the sort of thing I need?



I don't know how these little fires warmed a room let a lone a whole home??? I don't know LOL My warmray wasn't doing the job anymore,so I thought hey open fire,save me buying a new fireplace..........Think I might go gas???

[addo]

That, or a simpler style version, is the kind of thing which would've been in there. So dear to buy now!

Technically, a chimney mason is the trade who do fireplace building/repairs/reconstruction - but they're not exactly common. A good chimney sweep might be able to advise on whether the chimney will "flow" as an open fire, and perhaps comment on chimney pots too (they're another rip-off).

Usually an open fireplace has a concealed lip just above the lintel; this creates a venturi effect that draws smoke upwards more effectively and makes it harder for a strong wind to blow smoke and cinders back into the room.

I think in times past, people possibly dressed more warmly, and tolerated a degree more discomfort than we are used to. That's not being critical of your wishes; just a reflection.

Fan assisted gas heaters do a great job of warming, but the gas cost (if bottled) sneaks up on you and it's imperative to maintain fresh air into the room. Which in turn lets some heat go!

Regards, Adam.

[BeeMay]

Adam, thanks for your reply.
I'm thinking now, to board it back up,and get a new turbo 10 type combustion stove,to sit in front of it again. An inserted fireplace would be nice, pace wise,but I think they lose heat being inside the wall?
There is jsut so much to choose from,not sure what to get now........
thanks again,
chers
bee

[Ronaldo451]

It appears the chimney has been designed for a coal rather than wood burning fireplace. Coal fireplace chimneys are much narrower, this gives a lot of updraft to get the coals burning, but once they start to 'glow' you can close the flue flap and then rely on radiated heat from the coals and absorbed by the ceramic brick to heat the room.

Open wood fireplace flues are wider and you just keep throwing on fuel, the smoke smell also tend to be more noticeable, particularly 'the morning after'.

A Turbo 10 doesn't look as asthetic (to my taste anyway) but they work well and are very fuel efficient. Good luck either way

[BeeMay]

Thanks everyone for your replies, I have some browsing to do,to decide what I'm up for .Have enjoyed reading everyones posts on lots of topics ,and I'll be back.

[Brickie]

3. full view,see no hearth LOL

The hearth is there, you are missing the hobs.. Its where the fire sits.