Concrete driveway with paver bands - how?

[gapwedge0]

Hi,

First timer who has got great tips in the past but now need some specific advice, hope you all can help.

Am planning a 20m x 3m exposed aggregate driveway, with paver bands down either side and four bands across the driveway at intervals, (See diagram - not to scale).

Preliminary discussions with concreters suggest that there is a lot of mucking around to do this. One suggested that he would do the pour, then either I or someone more skilled could complete the paving. He said it would be cheaper for me, and no doubt easier for him too. My questions are:

1. What is required to do what I want? Does the concreter lay four "mini-slabs"?
2. If the concreter was to just do the concrete part and leave the paving to me, how would I go about it? (Don't have a problem down the sides, but what about between the "mini-slabs"? Would you lay them on sand or concrete, with mortar rather than sand?)
3. Is it a good idea to lay pavers at the junction between the road and the driveway and on the top LHS of the disagram? (My worry is that there is a fall of approx 120mm from right to left on the diagram and most entry is from down the hill, so more force to move pavers on LHS)
4. Advantages and disadvantages of sealing?

Thanks for any assistance

[johnc]

I'd probably ask either a bricklayer or paving contractor to do that part . We did our own, I'm not a fan of pavers through the middle so we ran ours around the edge only boxing up a rebated section in the slab suitably strengthened on the edges and pavers mortared into place. If we had have gone through the middle I would have stiffened the slab at the cross points by putting in a mini footing or beam under the paved section to make up for the strength removed by the rebated section. It is a lot more mucking around so expect to pay a premium for the work if you want it done right.

[silentC]

What about concrete stencilling?

[boban]

You're proposal is a PITA, whichever way you do it.

I would pour a 100mm footing for the pavers and then have the paver placed using a dry mortar bed like they do with tiles.

Then seal the pavers.

Then have the concretors come back and pour the infills.

What you want, especially the bands across the driveway make it a more difficult job. If you only wanted the borders paved, then this is much easier. Access to each infill section is hampered by the bands which means barrows and ramps and pain in the bum for any concreter. You will be slugged for it IMHO.

I guess a pump is an option but for such a small pour, it's not economical.

[silentC]

Did I mention concrete stencilling?

The reason I mention it, is because I'm going to do exactly this with my driveway - except for the exposed aggregate bit - and what is going to happen is that the drive will be poured and then some time later the stencil pattern will be sprayed on.

I presume it's just for appearances. Can't think of any other reason for it.

[scooter]

I reckon Silent is on the money. Would be a lot of stuffing around getting the levels bang on I'd reckon.

[Planned LScape]

It can be done quite easily- it's just extra cost for the concretors to form up should they box the whole section up, then put timbers in the paver dividers. will be fiddly work for them and as a result they will charge accordingly.

But laying of the pavers will be a sinch if they pour it well, just leave a recess of the paver thickness plus mortar depth.

[Bleedin Thumb]

What Planned said. You have to form the concrete first then go back and lay the pavers on a mortar bed on the recessed concrete.

If you try doing it about face - you will soon realise your mistake.

On the edges you can get away by letting the concrete ooze under the form - imagine a 100mm slab but using 50mm form - and free forming its level...but believe me its worth going the extra mile and placing the outer board 230mm out to achieve the sub-base level so you can lay the pavers a lot quicker.

I hope that makes sense.

[Planned LScape]

I would type up/draw a plan drawing showing all dimensions, allowing for paver thickness and mortar, and give it to the concretor. That way all is understood and is in plain writing for him to do the forming up

[gapwedge0]

Thanks everybody.

Your info was really informative and was a great help when talking to the concretors re quotes. Basically, to do what I wanted was gonna cost a bomb, I was gonna find it difficult to get someone to do as they all have plenty of work at the moment, and as silentc pointed out, it was only for appearances. The effect I want can be achieved for a lot less via the stencilling process which is the route I think I'll take.

I'll push my luck and ask one last Q if possible. Will sealing stop the darkening (black mouldy look) which many Brisbane exposed aggregate driveways appear to get? Or do they simply need a good pressure wash to come back? I guess my Q is, is there a real cost benefit to sealing the driveway?

TIA, CU