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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4

    Default Concrete driveway with paver bands - how?

    Hi,

    First timer who has got great tips in the past but now need some specific advice, hope you all can help.

    Am planning a 20m x 3m exposed aggregate driveway, with paver bands down either side and four bands across the driveway at intervals, (See diagram - not to scale).

    Preliminary discussions with concreters suggest that there is a lot of mucking around to do this. One suggested that he would do the pour, then either I or someone more skilled could complete the paving. He said it would be cheaper for me, and no doubt easier for him too. My questions are:

    1. What is required to do what I want? Does the concreter lay four "mini-slabs"?
    2. If the concreter was to just do the concrete part and leave the paving to me, how would I go about it? (Don't have a problem down the sides, but what about between the "mini-slabs"? Would you lay them on sand or concrete, with mortar rather than sand?)
    3. Is it a good idea to lay pavers at the junction between the road and the driveway and on the top LHS of the disagram? (My worry is that there is a fall of approx 120mm from right to left on the diagram and most entry is from down the hill, so more force to move pavers on LHS)
    4. Advantages and disadvantages of sealing?

    Thanks for any assistance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
    Age
    69
    Posts
    559

    Default

    I'd probably ask either a bricklayer or paving contractor to do that part . We did our own, I'm not a fan of pavers through the middle so we ran ours around the edge only boxing up a rebated section in the slab suitably strengthened on the edges and pavers mortared into place. If we had have gone through the middle I would have stiffened the slab at the cross points by putting in a mini footing or beam under the paved section to make up for the strength removed by the rebated section. It is a lot more mucking around so expect to pay a premium for the work if you want it done right.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    59
    Posts
    5,026

    Default

    What about concrete stencilling?
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Too close to Sydney
    Posts
    133

    Default

    You're proposal is a PITA, whichever way you do it.

    I would pour a 100mm footing for the pavers and then have the paver placed using a dry mortar bed like they do with tiles.

    Then seal the pavers.

    Then have the concretors come back and pour the infills.

    What you want, especially the bands across the driveway make it a more difficult job. If you only wanted the borders paved, then this is much easier. Access to each infill section is hampered by the bands which means barrows and ramps and pain in the bum for any concreter. You will be slugged for it IMHO.

    I guess a pump is an option but for such a small pour, it's not economical.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    59
    Posts
    5,026

    Default

    Did I mention concrete stencilling?

    The reason I mention it, is because I'm going to do exactly this with my driveway - except for the exposed aggregate bit - and what is going to happen is that the drive will be poured and then some time later the stencil pattern will be sprayed on.

    I presume it's just for appearances. Can't think of any other reason for it.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    55
    Posts
    549

    Default

    I reckon Silent is on the money. Would be a lot of stuffing around getting the levels bang on I'd reckon.


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bundoora, Melbourne
    Posts
    197

    Default

    It can be done quite easily- it's just extra cost for the concretors to form up should they box the whole section up, then put timbers in the paver dividers. will be fiddly work for them and as a result they will charge accordingly.

    But laying of the pavers will be a sinch if they pour it well, just leave a recess of the paver thickness plus mortar depth.
    Planned Landscape Constructions
    www.plannedlandscape.com.au

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,248

    Default

    What Planned said. You have to form the concrete first then go back and lay the pavers on a mortar bed on the recessed concrete.

    If you try doing it about face - you will soon realise your mistake.

    On the edges you can get away by letting the concrete ooze under the form - imagine a 100mm slab but using 50mm form - and free forming its level...but believe me its worth going the extra mile and placing the outer board 230mm out to achieve the sub-base level so you can lay the pavers a lot quicker.

    I hope that makes sense.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Bundoora, Melbourne
    Posts
    197

    Default

    I would type up/draw a plan drawing showing all dimensions, allowing for paver thickness and mortar, and give it to the concretor. That way all is understood and is in plain writing for him to do the forming up
    Planned Landscape Constructions
    www.plannedlandscape.com.au

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks everybody.

    Your info was really informative and was a great help when talking to the concretors re quotes. Basically, to do what I wanted was gonna cost a bomb, I was gonna find it difficult to get someone to do as they all have plenty of work at the moment, and as silentc pointed out, it was only for appearances. The effect I want can be achieved for a lot less via the stencilling process which is the route I think I'll take.

    I'll push my luck and ask one last Q if possible. Will sealing stop the darkening (black mouldy look) which many Brisbane exposed aggregate driveways appear to get? Or do they simply need a good pressure wash to come back? I guess my Q is, is there a real cost benefit to sealing the driveway?

    TIA, CU

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