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Results 16 to 30 of 41
Thread: Minimax Wipe-on Poly Question
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12th November 2007, 01:16 PM #16
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I meant to say "Mineral Turpentine."
All solvents can be made into different divisions and still use these names, numbers are only sigmificant when they are special ordered to special customers, this applies to all solvents.
I read through many Goverment MSDS and on all 3 of these distillated solvents, and all three of these that are sold to the general public all use the same name, the solvent name that is used when there are changes in the formula becomes Stoddart Solvent, which denotes a variation in the solvents divisions. It then may read Stoddart Solvent, mineral spirits...
Its like "Lacquer Thinners" there are many formula made, yet they all will work, some are different and are made for specific lacquers, but still are called lacquer thinners.
Every, search I did, showed them as all as "Mineral Spirits" and then their synonyns. (sp)
If you go into paint stores, arts and cratfs shops, home inprovement centers you will find variations of these solvents all with the same name, some are cheaper in price, and in different divisions, no one know this, its not listed, but they all will work, some better then others. I'm sure you have had some solvents from different companies in different cans that one was better then the other. I think we all have found this over time.
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12th November 2007, 01:20 PM #17
Yeah, whatever Mac
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13th November 2007, 09:14 PM #18
Happy Feet
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i assume you already know this, but store the cans upsidedown,
prevents air reaching product
astrid
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14th November 2007, 12:05 AM #19
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Drying Oils
By turning the cans upside down, the bottom oil will work, but the oil that is now on top of the can will skim and still harden over.
You need to remove the air with Bloxygen, use smaller jars, or fill the oil with marbles to the tops.
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14th November 2007, 12:46 PM #20
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Another way to prolong the life of finishing products is to put them into an old wine cask bladder. Remove the spigot to clean it out (and let it dry). Pour in your product, replace the spigot and squeeze lightly with the spigot open until you see the product and then close. Most air is removed and it keeps quite well.
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14th November 2007, 01:19 PM #21
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dosent the product degrade the plastic? if not sounds like a good idea
astrid
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14th November 2007, 07:43 PM #22
Happy Feet
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HB and Rsser,
re marbles
it would be tough on me too when my kids find out
I always thought you were supposed to turn a half full can upside down( this obviosly wouldnt work if you only had 20% left)
My old dad was a painter and finisher,
did his apprenticship in the old days in england, 6 years, scumbling faux finishes etc, did one day per month at cambridge fine art school.
He always used to turn his oil base stuff upside down?
Astrid
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15th November 2007, 12:38 AM #23
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I think turning it upside down ensures no air leakage in but the air is still in the bottom (now top). If no air gets in an evaporative finish with reach a stable vapour pressure and not further degrade. if the finish is reactive it will still oxidise and hence some would go off (this is all my theory of course). I like it upside down as when I turn it up the right way the sludge on the top can either be cut off or sinks through the mixture and is easier to mix. How this applies to min wax I have no idea but it might be applicable.
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15th November 2007, 01:06 PM #24
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finish in wine bladder
I have never had the finishing material degrade the wine bladder. Eventually there will be some build-up of solids so you just throw it away and get another (we all need an excuse to drink some wine).
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15th November 2007, 05:49 PM #25
Cool, so someone has done it. I will be trying it for sure. Only problem is that I don't know what to do with all of that filthy Fruity Lexia?
Anyone know of a good rocket fuel mix?
In theory the bladder is made to withstand alcohol which is a solvent, so it should have no problems with a bit of poly?
Did you have any problems with build-up on/around the nozzle? and do you keep it in the cardboard box to protect it from piercing itself on anything?I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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15th November 2007, 10:58 PM #26
Happy Feet
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thanks pusser
that might explain it
hate to think dad was always wrong
astrid
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17th November 2007, 11:16 AM #27
I think I got lucky!
Well, I think I got Lucky, Very Lucky indeed.
I poured the jellied WoP into a smaller container, mixed in enought mineral turps to nearly fill the jar and mixed thoroughly.
It was such a dream to put on the box. I got two coats on in an hour (took that long to do the lattice top)
It looks fantastic! A very neat, even coating, very smooth, so just what I was looking for!!! And even better I have about 200ml left over and a couple of smaller jars ready to be used as well.
Oh yes, I got very lucky!
Cheers
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17th November 2007, 02:22 PM #28
Wendy, Just to let you know, it's probably not the cap that is the problem as it is the air left in the half used container. Bloxygen will help, as will the marble trick (very clever trick, that. Wish I had thought of it). I, too, have had a similar product go bad and there goes not only a perfectly good product, but perfectly good money. It's a bummer, but can we do? Hang in there kiddo, you'll survive.
When all is said and done, there is usually a whole lot more said than done.
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13th December 2007, 11:38 AM #29
Hi Mac, seeing as though Bloxygen is just a blend of Inert gases, would this welding gas used for my MIG do the same thing?
Argoshield – for MIG welding
Argoshield is the tradename for BOC’s range of shielding gases containing the following three gases:
- Argon – for its ability to create the welding arc that allows spray transfer to be achieved, increasing the amount of weld metal deposited.
- Carbon dioxide – to improve the size and shape of the weld bead through increased melting and improved fusion characteristics.
- Oxygen – to reduce the surface tension of the molten metal and droplet sizes and therefore reduce the amount of welding wire needed, and the risk of cracks.
I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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13th December 2007, 12:51 PM #30
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Keep us in formed...
Martrix
Give them a try. and let us know what happens.
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