Question for Wipe on Poly users

[Auld Bassoon]

Yep

[woodwork wally]

I have not used the wipe on Miniwax, is it a similar product to estapol only a wipe on thus eliminating those dreaded brush marks?
Where is it stocked? Bunnies?

Hi Ingin No it is not like estapol It is more like french polishing The purchase point is correct though . It is not suitable for the likes of floorsalthough can be used to touch up low wear spots . but does give a good finish to wood projects where a quality wood has been used . Hope that helps Regards Wally

[Honorary Bloke]

Hi Ingin No it is not like estapol It is more like french polishing The purchase point is correct though . It is not suitable for the likes of floorsalthough can be used to touch up low wear spots . but does give a good finish to wood projects where a quality wood has been used . Hope that helps Regards Wally

I hope that she has figured it out in the year since she posted. BTW, Wally, poly is not a bit like French Polishing but you do get a high gloss if you choose the high gloss poly.

[RufflyRustic]

Yeah, the thread's a bit old, but I tell you what, it is still a darn good one. This is one thread I'll be printing out and keeping in my book of hints/tips.

cheers
Wendy

[MacS]

I don't know if the question about Mineral Spirits was answered, but White Spirits and Mineral Spirits are the exact same solvents.
PS -So, is Mineral Turps, buy the cheapest one of these 3.

[rsser]

Yes; Bunnies usually carries White spirits.

Also as noted in other threads you can reduce the air in the can by adding marbles as the level drops, and some folk recommend decanting oil-based finishes into an empy 2l wine cask bladder.

[Honorary Bloke]

I, for one, add marbles to the can to keep the level up. So far, it works well. Else it wll quickly skim over and cause trouble.

[But, it's tough on the marbles. ]

[Big Shed]

I don't know if the question about Mineral Spirits was answered, but White Spirits and Mineral Spirits are the exact same solvents.
PS -So, is Mineral Turps, buy the cheapest one of these 3.

Mac, I have addressed the differences in the other thread, but here is my reply in case you missed it.

Hi Wendy,

Our (USA) Mineral Spiirits is the same exact solvent as your (UK & AUS) White Spirits, or your Spirit Turpentine. Buy the cheapest one sold.

Polyurethane, is basically the same as your natural varnish resins, except Polyurethane is made from man-made synthetic resins. It is consided a "reactive coating" meaning it does not redisolve once cured, where as, the Shellacs and Nitro Lacquers which are "evaporative coatings" will disolve over and over whenever recoated.

Mac, there is no such product in Australia as Spirit Turpentine. We have 2 main hydrocarbon solvents, Mineral Turpentine and White Spirit
As well as differences in boiling range, density and vapour density, the biggest difference is in aromatics content. Mineral Turps is much higher in aromatics (46-48%) than White Spirit (16%), hence Mineral Turps has better "cutting" power, ie it thins out an enamel much quicker than White Spirit. Because of the lower aromatics, White Spirits is the solvent of choice for sign writing enamels for use on polycarbonate, if Mineral Turps was used here it would induce stress cracking in the polycarbonate.
It also makes White Spirit the solvent of choice in cheaper enamels, you can bung more in to reach a given viscosity.

There are other differences, but I think the above illustrates that these 2 solvents are not the same.

Wendy, if you want to try and thin the Minwax Poly, use the Mineral Turps rather than the White Spirits. It is at best a temporary solution (excuse the pun) though.

[astrid]

as mentioned on the other thread,
once opened store upside down

astrid

[MacS]

Big Shed,

I answered you on the other thread.

I meant to write "Spirit Turpentine" which is a petroleum distillate, and not Turpentine at all. Whereas, the turpentine comes from Pine trees, there are two kinds, wood and gum. The gum is the better one, it is distilled from the sap of the trees, whereas, the wood if first destroyed by burning and then distilled.

It is a Mineral Spirit "sister solvent" and is classified as such according to the commericail MSDS.

Whatever,

Cheers

[MacS]

By turning the cans upside down, the bottom oil will work, but the oil that is now on top of the can will skim and still harden over. There is air up there.

You need to remove the air with Bloxygen, use smaller jars, or fill the oil with marbles to the tops.

[ravlord13]

I use wipe on polly as a base coat on the boxes and clocks I make, as a top coat I have found cannuba wax gives it a brilliant touchy feely finish.
Sometimes when I have used Huon Pine or Red Myrtle the finish feels tacky and will not seem to dry, that is why I started using the wax.
A local woodie I talked to about this suggested that it was probably the oil in the timber.

[munruben]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.

[robyn2839]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.

and probably would be 1/3 of the price ,sounds good to me....bob

[cellist]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.

In my experience, the cocktail described above is pretty close to the truth, but it will be a very thin mix indeed. Have had great success with about 20 percent turps and then 0000 rather than 000 steel wool. Build the coats. The beauty of the thinning is also that it takes far, far less time to go off. I've also found that there is no problem with putting on subsequent coats once the surface is touch dry. Anyone have any problems doing that? I was afraid that it might out-gas under the new coat, but nup...didn't do it. Polyurethane has a beaut way of chemically bonding with itself, so lay it on over and over. I use a piece of cloth baby nappy, but have been tempted to experiment with some fine, store-bought linen....maybe one day...

After the final coat, again I rub it back with the 0000, and then apply Gilly Stephenson's carnauba wax/polish. Hard to rub, and you really must rub it off very quickly after applying (in other words, don't let it haze over, or you'll be there working and sweating for a good long while!), but this is a fantastic surface. It laughs at water on the bottom of a glass put on it for a while. No ring or stain.

Last tip: When buffing the wax off, don't apply much pressure as you finish the piece off. Light and fast does it. Good technique for other things too.