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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    1

    Question Covering an exposed brick wall.

    Our kitchen and family room is made up of ugly exposed brick walls. Plaster cornices and wooden skirting boards. How do I cover the bricks. Have been looking at plasterboard adhered directly to the bricks (possible but board is 10 mm thick) but this would require new skirtings and cornices (more work than worth). I am looking at doing it myself to save dollars but don't want it that thick. Have looked at Hardiflex as its only 4.5 mm thick but not sure on glue or bogging up the joins. Havent really entertained render and plaster, thickness and mess and long working time. Need something that can be done quickly and neatly.

    Any advise would be much appreciated.

    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    Yalgoo, you have run yourself out of viable options I think.

    Maybe a coat of paint might brighten the brick wall up a bit?

    Even if you used 4.5 mm Hardiflex you will find it will end up at least 6mm off the face of the brick, possibly more. Effectivly covering up the bottom member of the cornice. It would always look out of place in my opinion.

    Changing the skirting boards and replacing the cornice it not a big deal and would make a good and proper job of it. Otherwise the painting option is the way to go IMHO.

    Cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    456

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    Rod,

    Does painting the brickwork preclude you from later on changing your mind and wanting to make a better job of it and stick on plasterboard? I've wondered about how the various adhesives would take over paint.

    Cheers
    Franklin

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    882

    Default

    Hardiflex doesn't have recessed edges for stopping. Villaboard does, but it's about 6mm thick, and it's dearer than plasterboard.
    Surely you'd remove and re-use the same skirting boards? You could save the cornice as well, but it's generally not worth it for the time and hassle involved. 90mm cove is cheap as chips anyway.

    Hey Rod, isn't there a thin plasterboard, specially made for curved surfaces? I think I've seen this somewhere, but it may be my imagination playing tricks with me.

    Edit: I can't find a 'Gyprock' product, but I found this 4mm product:
    http://www.yoshino-gypsum.com/en/pro...be/kabe06.html
    Probably expensive though, and I don't know if it's recessed.


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    Do the job properly and use plasterboard instead of a Tv style el cheapo botch up
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    Agree with you Bob.

    Yes Pawnhead there is a 6mm plasterboard but would not solve this persons problem here it would still look terrible up to the cornice and skirts etc.

    To stick plasterboard over painted bricks you would need to remove sections of paint or batten the wall.

    Cheers Rod
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    882

    Default

    Yeh, you'd loose most of the lip of your cornice whatever you used.
    A bit of a hack job.
    Quote Originally Posted by rod@plasterbrok View Post
    To stick plasterboard over painted bricks you would need to remove sections of paint
    You'd only have to do that for your daubs though.
    Would you use cornice cement at about 400mm centres each way?
    Would you just brace the board, or use mechanical fixings?
    How many fixings (if any), and what type?
    Would it be necessary to keep the fixings away from the daubs considering it's masonry?

    Sorry to pick your brain. I've only fixed to battens before, and the best info may be useful to me some day.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    675

    Default

    Yes only where the daubs go.
    Cornice cement or masonary adhesive at 450 centres.
    No need to brace the board if done corectly.
    See http://www.how2plaster.com/stickonplaster.html for the size of daubs to use. If you keep the size uniform you will get better adhesion without the need for bracing or mechanical fixing. Mechanical fixing is bad as it will pull the sheet in too much normally.

    Having said that if a wall is really bad or if the board has not been stacked flat there may be times where bracing is required. Done corectly this won't be the case.

    Cheers.
    Great plastering tips at
    www.how2plaster.com

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