my first project, need help please

[sierra1boy]

hello all,
This is my first project and I think I'm in a little over my head. I bought an antique desk that i was going to restore. Its a solid wood desk and is finished in what looks like a walnut varnish or stain. I started by stripping it down with chemicals. My plan was to change colors to more of a red mohagany or port wine time color. I chose a "red mohagony" danish oil and have been using it for the last week. So far, I have three coats on it and its looks more like a strawberry cool. I think i'm having problem with penetration but I really dont' know...I'm now questioning my stripping and whether I did a good enough job with it. Can someone help me with some knowledge? what can I do guys, please help

[astrid]

you picked a biggi for a first project but dont panic
firstly colourd danish oil to my knowedge is only to enhance a colour that is already there.
second be patient
do you know what the original timber is?
do you want to strip and start again?
how long ago did you put the DO on.
If its still uncured you can take it off easily with stripper and steel wool.
give us some more detail re what you did how old the piece is and what kind of finish you want.
there are a few tricks you can try if we know what youve done already.
some pics would be good

cheers,
astrid

[manoftalent]

yeah I agree with astrid ......I am thinking maybe there is a sealer under it also ....preventing the danish oil getting in .....at the worst you may have to sand back to original timber .....apply a stain of choice, and then danish oil it ..to get the colour you want ....pls try and post some close up pics of it .....to get a better idea ......

[MacS]

Lesson # 1 in finishing is to "make up a start to finish sample"

There is most likely very little color in that varnish, this is done so that the coatings will not streak or blotch, some companies have to much color, and their coating needs to be reduced in half.

In my opinion varnishes with color added, work best when they are sprayed, we call them "shading stains," they are used to add color and coating in each application with transparency, and they do not block out the wood.

You would be better off stripping it again, and deciding if you want to use a dye or a pigmented stain for your color.

Whichever, stain you decide to use, be sure you make up a complete sample.

Good Luck

[sierra1boy]

Thank you guys for all the information. Very helpfull. I've attached some pictures so you guys can see what i'm faced with. The desk is about 30 years old but i'm not sure what type of wood it is. I guess at this point I just need to see if there's anything I can put over the danish oil that will make it a darker: red mohagany/port wine color. I'm a little reluctant to strip it back down as we're heading into winter and I've already put a ton of time into it. What do you guys think?

[SJD]

Hi,

This might sound quite obvious - but does the stain/oil LOOK dark (in the can)?

Have you tested it on other woods (try and find something fresh and porous perhaps)
?

IF it looks like a light colour in the can AND it looks the same on other woods THEN your stain is too light.

You can add black / dark brown pigment to suit.

You shouldn't have to strip - just add pigment to your exsisting can and reapply

The colour in place will affect the final output though - but that should be ok.

Sorry I can't help you with brands as you're in nevada - im sure someone else can chip in here

hope this helps

[astrid]

another old trick is to let some of your DO start to jell dont let it get rubbery
then mix it with a dark bees wax furniture polish 50/50 and apply it to your sealed timber the same way you would if you were applying wax polish.
this gives a old waxed appearence to your piece and you buff it up with soft cloth.test this technique first on a piece of danish oiled scrap.
dont forget to treat your drawers and the rest of the desk as you have already done or they wont match.
this finish is tougher than just wax but not as tough as DO.
wont take a hot coffee cup but you shouldnt put hot cups on furniture anyway should you

astrid

[sierra1boy]

The color in the can looks very dark, almost a port wine color, the product is called Walco Mahogany Red Danish Oil. I'm almost positive its a penetration issue because I tested it on untreated wood and it came out much darker. As you can see the drawers look closer to the original color and that was even after 3 treatments (30min, 60min, 60min). I didn't sand it after I stripped it chemically, maybe thats the problem?? As for the bee wax technique, its sound pretty complex I'm almost positive I'd screw that up, as i'm a newbee. What else can I do guys? any thoughts?

thank you

p.s. anyone have an idea of what kind of would that is?

[MacS]

If you checked the DO in the can to see if the color is darker after it was mixed up, this might work for you, if the color is not darker, then do they sell a darker color DO?

I don't think you would be familar with a finishing technique known as color "glazing," its a technique that is used to add or change the color of the finish, it also enhances and enriches the finish.

You could use the DO as the glaze. YOU MUST FIRST DO A SAMPLE.

Instead of wiping on the DO, and then wiping it off, you will wipe it on and then "brush out the DO with the grains of the wood" it will take some practicing to make sure that you are "brushing out" the DO almost dry. You will need a few 3" flat brushes, you have to keep the brushes clean, use white spirits

You then must allow it to throughly dry, you can repete this technique until you get the color you want.

Remember, you will need to practice this technique, before you do it on your work.

Photo to follow.

Good Luck

MacS

[MacS]

Here, are the steps to glazing, you could practice this with your DO to see if it works and that it adds and changes the color.

You can omit the seal coats, because the DO seals its self.

Good Luck,

MacS

[sierra1boy]

You guys are great, I think i will try this. Thank you so much for the advice, this site is wonderful!

[sierra1boy]

So with the glazing techinque I'm basically applying a thin layer of DO and letting it dry complete and not wiping it off right? Is it okay for me to use a brush to put it on, and then use the same brush to brush it with the gran or do i have to use a rag/sponge initially?

[MacS]

You can use a rag or a brush to apply the DO, you can even use a rag to wipe some off, but you must use a brush to work the glaze back and forth with the grain of the wood.

My reason for mentioning about extra flat brushes, is because the brush will load up with the DO and not work right. It is best when that happens, is to use a clean dry brush.

Take the used brush, and clean it in the white spirits, and dry it off. The more brushes, the less stopping for a clean brush.es....s

I hope this helps you.

Mac S

[sierra1boy]

Sure does, thank you. One more question, am I only using the white spirits to clean the brushes or will I be using that to reduce or add to the DO? Also, is mineral spirits the same thing as white spirits?

[MacS]

Sure does, thank you. One more question, am I only using the white spirits to clean the brushes or will I be using that to reduce or add to the DO? Also, is mineral spirits the same thing as white spirits?

Yes, you will be able to use the "white spirits" with the DO, all DO's are not the same, if the DO is too difficult to "brush out" add a little solvent, it should make it easier to brush out.

Yes, they are the exact same solvent, also, Paint Thinner is the same solvent. Over here in the USA, we do not use the name White Spirits, they also use that name in the UK.

Think Twice, Finish Once...

MacS