Help! Old 1930's pine floor boards

[tarantula]

They have been sanded and have come up a treat, but now completely stuck for what to do next. Not expecting a 100% solution, the boards are not all that special, there are some gaps and they do move a tiny bit when walked on. But what are the options for finishing? I am not interested in having a really glossy finish or anything that looks 'plastic-y'.

Bearing in mind the need for a DIY solution, can anyone suggest a potential solution and give some suggestions about why you have suggested it?

Cheers
Tarantula

[Studley 2436]

I guess Tung Oil is a good start do a search see what you come up with. There are plenty here that wanted to avoid the plasticy look you get from Poly

Studley

[tarantula]

I guess Tung Oil is a good start do a search see what you come up with. There are plenty here that wanted to avoid the plasticy look you get from Poly

Studley

Thanks Studley,

I am a total beginner (as you can prob tell from the question) and I am a bit put off by all the stuff about how hard Tung Oil is to apply. But I must admit I don't know much about it...off to do a bit of a search on Tung Oil.

Tarantula

[Studley 2436]

I did a cypress pine picture frame in Finishing Oil. Which was just a brush on thing and sand back and then put some wax on top. Gorgeous result. Really Easy. Don't be put off by reports it is hard. I think most stuff is a matter of concentrating and taking care to do it right.

Do a search there is tons of stuff here that people have posted.

Studley

[Ashore]

For me its a 2 pack first allow a good cure time and a single pack over
2 pack gives the hard wearing and the single pack a softer finish so you don't get cracking if you drop something on the floor
Clean with a table spoon of metho in a bucket of water once a week
Gives great wear and you don't need to recoat every year or so

Most important though whatever finish you use just remember its just a floor to be walked on so don't stress over every scratch mark etc ITS JUST A FLOOR

[jmaxwell]

Treatex is a natural finish . stay away from solvent based poly as they are no good for you . these finishes can be applied with no special skills and touched up with out having to redo whole floor . www.whittlewaxes.com.au

[builderwally]

My opinion would be go for a tung oil and then a gemini wax over that. If scratched the gemini wax is easily re applied over the scratched area.

If not happy with the gaps between your boards a tip that floor sanders do with parquetry floors is that they fill the gaps with plasterboard topcoat which is dyed with an oxide to match the colour of the boards.

Hope this helps

[Ashore]

If not happy with the gaps between your boards a tip that floor sanders do with parquetry floors is that they fill the gaps with plasterboard topcoat which is dyed with an oxide to match the colour of the boards.

Hope this helps

with parquetry floors this may work but with floor boards you fill the gaps and the change from winter to summer and the gap filler will pop out long boards expand/shrink at a far diffrent rate than small parquerty blocks

[Extracare]

Feat Watsons Alkathane is a modified Tung Oil. Easy to apply and dries quicker than trad TO. Not very glossy and will go with the rustic sanding job.