Ceiling Battens?

[rod@plasterbrok]

Purlins are hard to screw directly to, although not impossible. The screw required is a dill point bugle head screw.

Having said that it is much easier to screw a rondo pt no. 237 clip direct to the purlin with a 12mm button head drill point screw.

If the purlin has a lip, (most do), there are clips that slip over the lip which the furring channel attaches to. The only problem with these clips, is that you are limited with adjustment.

These clips come in various sized depending on the lip of the purlin.
Pt. No. 386 = 13mm
Pt. No. 387 = 16mm
Pt. No. 332 = 19mm
Pt. No. 388 = 22mm
Pt. No. 385 = 25mm

The next method you could use that will give you adjustment is a Pt. No. 226 clip screwed with a 12mm drill point screw to the flat side of the purlin.

Typically you would start about 20mm to 40mm from the wall with the fist channel. Then dependent on which type of plasterboard you will use either 450mm centers fro standard board, or, 600mm centers for ceiling board.

Use a furing channel wall track at the ends if there is no purlin to clip to. This is a 28mm track that screws to the wall, the end of the furring channel fits into this track and the first fixing can be 1200mm away from the wall.

All fixings fro furring channel can be 1200mm apart.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Rod.

P.S if anyone else wants to post a question on battens it might be best to start a new thread. This one is getting a bit long.

[raedan]

Boban I thinks you are talking rubbish if you fix plasterboard to trusses it will crack because of the movment in the timber over time the only reason not to use metal battens is to cut cost and you sound like thats your go.

[raedan]

[quote=raedan;588021]Boban I thinks you are talking rubbish if you fix plasterboard to trusses it will crack because of the movment in the timber over time the only reason not to use metal battens is to cut cost and you sound like thats your go.if it's worth doing do it properly