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12th September 2007, 01:49 AM #1
A question regarding house to shed joining
Okay the latest of the long running series at Chez Dingo Creek
Rumor now has it that there will come a time when the present delapidated house at the creek will need to be removed or relocated.
Now since her highness of the creek has this time round decided that a building company shall do the deed she has to this end found plans and redrawn them to what she wants while her BETTER half ala me has figured that the BEST absolute best place to build said new Chez Dingo Creek is RIGHT SMACK WHERE the existing abode is.
Now aside from the bloody obvious of us having to pack and move out for the duration... and not being able to find a buyer for the house nor for that matter has the house relocator we have had some discussions with... its fair been decided that said existing house should be relocated to the far end of the existing shed.
This is considered a BLOODY BOBBY FLAMIN DAZZLER of an idea by yours truely who being rather swamped with wood and tools in the existing shed has been toying with the idea dropping hints and leaving shed websites open on the computer... so this is the present thoughts
Shane that bloke of brilliance has even contacted the local darstardly doohickies that reside at the local ?????... errr shire offices and since the area of the block that its moving to is zoned general farmland (its got a weird type of zoning for some reason) there is no problem nor issue with our doing this idea and no approval needed just send through the rough drawings of the relocation on the site and they will stamp it... busy busy down there apparently bit of a boom happenin
Sooo now what Im figureing at present is how best to locate the house to shed joinup
The shed is a 3 bay 9mtr x 6mtr 2.7mtr shed... one door in the middle on the house facing 9mtr side and another on the near fence side of the far 6mtr (side furtherest away from house)
The house is 19mtrs long x 7mtrs at the thinnest end... its a dogleg shape with a 6mtr x 4mtr dogleg out the back and close on 4mtrs maybe 5mtrs high (havent measured that yet )
So the plan is to have the relocator pick the house up and move it holders boulders straight down behind the shed... my issue is that the 7mtr end will be facing the 6mtr side of the shed now this isnt a bad thing but with the major difference in heights and there being a 2ft wide overhang from the eave to the apex of the house
If I just slam it hard up against the shed the roof will stand several feet above the shed roof... no biggie?... Im considering standing the house about 2mtrs away from the shed so I can make a sloping roof line flowing down from the house to the shed and inside I can then make a sloping ramp from the concrete of the existing shed to the timber floor of the house/shed... it would also give me yet another 2mtrs!!
So all up Im hoping to end up with a shed that is 30mtrs long x 6 - 7mtrs wide with a dogleg at the back... the idea is sound in that it will allow for her highness to keep the seatainer for a time for storage and I can use the dogleg as a finishing room
Another question I have relates to installing a roller door at the far end of the house section just before the dogleg I guess Im going to have to reinforce the roof joists and wall studs to do that eh?
Oh the house is going to be gutted once moved so only the floors and outside walls are left all internal walls will be taken out and reinforcement added where needed.
Anyways any clues thoughts ideas?Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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12th September 2007, 08:53 AM #2Awaiting Email Confirmation
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Goulburn NSW
- Age
- 89
- Posts
- 7
I wouldn't put them together, but as you say leave a space then you can put a roof that suits to make the join. Will the house move fix the flood problem?
les
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12th September 2007, 10:03 AM #3
And I wouldn't remove the end wall on the shed either, not without some serious consideration on bracing. You might need to put up some external bracing if you want the end to stay upright
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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12th September 2007, 10:48 AM #4
Shane, why junk the old joint,
might make a good gallery/studio with a bitta woodwork n a bitta artwork etc
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12th September 2007, 12:28 PM #5
Les
No the house move on its own wont do a thing to ward of another flood... what it will do however is open up the same site to enable another house to be built on... no extra costs for services run ins etc... it will also I HOPE give me another shed which I badly need
Im getting quite convinced that the differing heights will mean a separation and a sloping roof added between the two buildings
DJ
I intend to take out the end wall... what possible good can it be to me with a blasted wall in the way of movement? I could I suppose install a roller door but then... I want the whole thing open... if need be I can whack up a few central posts but anyway I have a feeling that with every wall I remove I will need to make some extra support corner and central bracings... particularily to the roof joists and main beam
Bob
Theres no intent on "junk" the old girl... shes going to become my workshop!! the inner walls will be recycled into something or other (whole house is made of Jarrah and Karri) and thus be of use again... the back dogleg area will be the varnish finishing room this one may well get a roller door to get things such as boats and larger peices out but I dont like the sodding things so maybe a slider?... the rest will be a timber floored workshop so Id not say thats junking her
As to making it into a gallery/showroom... mate I dont make enough gear as yet to warrant that!! And when I do then we can make something from one section eh? the windows and doors are going to remain in place so that will be good.
I just realized something!!... I havent made anything from timber for about 1 month!! :eek:
Anyways cheers fellas
ShaneBelieve me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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13th September 2007, 09:53 AM #6
gday
what is she sitting on at the moment? brick piers? timber posts?
what about your shed? is it slab on ground or on some sub-frame?
the wall you wish to remove, is this a gable end or hip-end? what is your external wall cladding?
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13th September 2007, 11:33 AM #7
Gidday brynk
Presently shes on timber stumps and about4 1/2ft of the ground at the highest end about a foot and a half at the other... the house will simply go on new stumps up near the shed as its moved and they will be a lot lower
The shed is on a 4in concrete pad...
The house wall Im planing on removing is at the end of the house... so the end were the roofline peaks into a V (only the other side up)... is that gable or hip? I thought they were two different roof styles?
External is some sort of hardiplank vilaboard type stuff (not asbestos) roof tin sheet... no windows that end.
CheersBelieve me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!
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14th September 2007, 10:19 AM #8
yessa gable end. as was mentioned earlier by djstimber bracing is an issue but fortunately you have the height of the gable above you and the timber from the studs that will be removed to create the opening to help you out
i've attached two docos, one showing a basic gable-end from the code, and one showing something along the lines you would need to consider doing once you create that large opening.
issue a is you need to pick up the roof-load above the rollerdoor, as well as have something to hang the door itself off. there is a large lintel in pic 2 that you could actually mount the roller door to the back of to gain a little extra height.
issue b you need to take over the work of the planks & wall-sheeting & stop the whole thing from racking and crumpling you nice new roller door! the bracing shown could be gal steel strapping or steel flat, batten timber, etc; note the green ones meet the ridge board & the red ones need to tie to the sub-structure; maybe a bearer & post junction which will tie you to your footings.
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14th September 2007, 10:23 AM #9
the other option with bracing is to have an internal wall that is fully braced in both directions, no more than 1/2 way along the length of the house. that way you would have a 'receptacle' with the wide opening, which then forces you through a door to get out to the back rooms.
you would still need some bracing where the roller-door is though to ensure the thing stays square & if you don't already have the timber lying around for the stud-frame then it will add to the cost & might well wind up costing more than the bracing itself!
r's brynk
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