Erecting a fence

[bob w]

Hi all
My daughter has a Great Dane that has demolished her fence and she is wanting me to erect a new colorbond fence she is having delivered tomorrow.
I plan to do this on the weekend but as I have never done this before I thought someone may have some advice for me or maybe even a link to another site.
The block is gently sloping for about 2/3 of the length of the fence so I am wondering do I use the step method or the raked look. Which is easier and what are the methods used for both? No doubt members of this forum will have done this work before so I look forward to your replies.
Thanks in anticipation
Bob W

[Ashore]

Bob Its been a long time since I put any up however
It is a lot easier to use the stepped method, if you slope it you will either have to cut the sheets to match the slope , a lot of work, or angle the posts , down right rediculous.
Set out your string line set your first post to the desired depth to suit the panels use a top and a bottom rail to get the distance to the next post get it in place and screw the top and bottom rails in place make sure the post and rails are square and correct using a spirit level and the rails are at the correct distance apart then work your way along, when all the posts and rails are in allow the concrete , I assume you are concreteing in the posts, to set for a day or two then remove the top rails one at a time and slide the sheets in place an re connect the top rail .
Don't put the sheets in while the concrete is setting any wind and you are in trouble have seen people use angle braces 90 deg to the fence at the mid point or a couple of spots to assist in keeping the fence correct while the concrete dries its up to you
Your fence wont be the exact length and the last section you will have to make shorter this is ok as you can overlap the sheets, you may however have to cut a strip of the end of one sheet so take some tin snips and a hachsaw to shorten the last rails, or an angle grinder with a cutting blade
I'd start at the high point and work down the slope its easier to get the steps right and the posts to the right depth
The bottom rails are the ones with drainage holes so keep them a couple of inches clear of the ground this also makes using a wipper snipper easier when cutting the grass
Thats about all I remember mate as I said it's been a while
Oh and buy that cordless impact driver you need for the job , never miss a tool buying chance

[bob w]

Many thanks Ashore
It sounds like I imagined it would be. I have asked her husband to start digging the holes based upon the length of the rails so hope he gets it right. He should go alright as he is as keen as mustard and always willing to learn. Trouble is they live approx 110km's away so he will be unsupervised until I get there. Yes we are concreting the posts in and I have allowed 1.5 bags of concrete per hole (20kg bags) so hope he doesn't make the holes too big or deep. Deep not so bad as he can part fill them again which should "learn him".
Once again these forums are a good source of info especially on the tasks previously untried. Thanks again for your prompt reply and for your assistance.

Cheers
Bob W
P.S. Purchased the cordless impact driver last year for another job. I was impressed with the Hitachi I saw at a trade show so grabbed one while SWMBO wasn't looking.

[Ashore]

Bob with the depth of the holes I use to make them to allow to drive the post into solid ground for the last 10-12" with a block of wood on top and a 4lb hammer
Your holes don't have to be filled with just concrete , broken bricks etc can save you a few $ but if you do use bricks to take up some of the space make sure the concrete gets in all the other spaces
Rgds

[Barry_White]

Bob

To keep the hole down in size tell him to go and buy one of those double sided post hole shovels. About $40.00 at Bunnings.