Tiled splashback?

[dennford]

, they wont pull the gyprock apart.

That's the bit that would have bothered me - especially if the gyprock has been damaged.

Denn

[Harry72]

Thanks Bricks(and others!)for the advice, you've confirmed what the FIL(retired bricky/plasterer & tiling extraordinare)said.
When he tiles it for me he's going to wall plug and screw it, with thin washers just for my piece of mind!

So they just water proof the gyprock nowdays for wet area's?
What's the waterproofing product they use?

[Bloss]

As long as the gyprock is stuck to the wall well enough, and the tiles are stuck to the gyprock well enough, they wont pull the gyprock apart.

Ps I've not seen a new bathroom clad in hardy board, ever. I'm a plumber and I see them every day. The only benefit I know of for useing Hardy board, villa board or what ever is that it is more water resistant, this property is pretty much irrelevant with the quality of water proofing products available now days. I know bathrooms used to be in hardy board because of the water proof properties, i've renovated a few that were, but not any new ones.

Yep glue tiles straight to plasterboard as has been said forces are shear ie: down not out - no delamination. Check right adhesive, but most good ones will be fine.

BTW - A bathroom not clad with compressed fibre sheet nowadays does not comply with BCA (at least partially in the BCA defined wet areas) and should not pass inspection. I have seen many bathrooms with plasterboard above the midline and ceilings are generally plasterboard which is fine, but a good quality gloss, semi-gloss or low-sheen acrylic (or oil-based) paint should be used - flat PVA paint allows too much moisture through and mould is more likely.

Little reason not to use a waterproof wall board in a bathroom - fixing is fast and simple and if the waterproofing fails damage is much reduced.

Of course most leaks will be through the shower hob where there is relatively constant water flow and moisture can be sustained at high levels for long periods.

The use of the water based polyurethane and other waterproofing systems with fibreglass reinforcing available for some years now should see the end of leaking bathroom floors & walls even of grout breaks down.

[juan]

I am about to replace the ceiling in my bathroom and was wondering whether it would be a good idea to use villaboard rather that plasterboard due to condensation. What are the negatives of using villaboard on the ceiling?

[Bleedin Thumb]

Ps I've not seen a new bathroom clad in hardy board, ever. I'm a plumber and I see them every day.

Mate maybe you just work for some crook builders. You can get moisture resistant Gyprock -Aquatech but it is only as good as the membrane covering it and it would be foolish to use that stuff in a wet area - above the splash zone and ceiling maybe -but in those areas you are not going to membrane so why waste your money?

[bricks]

While it's true that I've only seen bathrooms done with Blue board Gyprock ( wet area gyprock). Judging by the noted resonses of others in other states, perhaps it is not allowed ( it is in sa). Here in SA the entire wet portion of the bathroom is coated with waterproofing membrane.

For the rules maybe someone could clarify that here for us.

[billbeee]

BTW - A bathroom not clad with compressed fibre sheet nowadays does not comply with BCA (at least partially in the BCA defined wet areas) and should not pass inspection. .

Bloss and other posters, I agree entirely that good practice dictates that Gyprock shouldn't be used on bathroom walls, but sadly it is, and sadly it complies with BCA. The BCA is as it's name states, is Australia wide.
You might have local regulators with a bit of sense who have altered that aspect of it. Good on em!

The attached photo I took a few weeks ago in a house for the Defence Housing Authority, who pride themselves on quality work. Figure that out.
Cheers
Bill

[Dirty Doogie]

"I am about to replace the ceiling in my bathroom and was wondering whether it would be a good idea to use villaboard rather that plasterboard due to condensation. What are the negatives of using villaboard on the ceiling?"


Juan - the only negative I can think of is that villaboard is harder to screw into to fix. They make a special screw for fibre cement called a "Fibrezip" with a flush setting head. Using normal Gyprock or timber screws wont work as they blunt going through and wont embed the screw head.

If you intend nailing the sheets up then there is no extra problem (Although I personally find it very difficult to nail overhead sheets).

Villaboard ceilings can be set using the same stud adhesive as gyprock.

Oh - you may also find that villaboard doesnt come in as long a sheet as Gyprock which depending on your sheet layout may mean Butt joins in the sheets - and as the name suggests butt joins are a pain in the Butt!

Doog

[juan]

Thanks Doog, maybe I will settle for the wet area plasterboard.