Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Finishing Tassie Oak Veneer

    I'm building a table for my kitchen that will get a fair bit of general use. I didn't want to spend heaps but wanted it to match the wooden kitchen cabinets so I decided on a tassie Oak Veneered particle board for the table top and tassie oak for the legs, etc. I've stained the whole lot to a darker colour to match the rest of the kitchen and bought some Rustins DO to finish the surface of the table (as I heard it was non-toxic - ie I can eat something off the table that fell off my plate, safe for little kids, etc)

    I've sanded back to 400 and applied 2 coats of Rustins - first coat just wiped on, 2nd coat worked in with 600 grade wet and dry. I'm a little disappointed in the result thus far, very little sheen to speak of, not much difference to just the bare stained timber.

    Any thoughts on how I can get a better finish gratefully accepted. Keep working the DO in? (Probably got enough Rustins to give it another couple of coats) Give it a final coat of wax? I went the oil route becasue I like the fact that if I have some scratches, etc, I can just repair the specific area rather than having to rub back the whole table and reseal (as I understand is the case with a poly finish).

    Cheers
    ------------------------------
    The man who knows how will always have a job.
    The man who also knows why will always be his boss.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,515
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    To get any sort of sheen with Danish requires at least 4 coats with about 48 hours between.

    Little doubtful that you may get a sheen at all with staining and being a veneer.

    If all else fails Poly or NC will go over DO after you let it dry for a week.

    Another thought is that the DO is reacting with the stain and not allowing it to even penetrate.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I don't think there's a problem with the stain and DO reacting. The DO seems to soak into the veneer quite well, so much so that I thought the tin I bought would be sufficient for at least 6 coats, but after seeing how much soaked in, I think I'll be lucky to get 4. Being a veneer maybe the oil is getting to the particle board substrate? Would a DO with Poly (Cabots?) give any different results?
    ------------------------------
    The man who knows how will always have a job.
    The man who also knows why will always be his boss.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,515
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    This a problem with staining veneers. It generally does soak through to the substrate.

    That is the reason that most finishers use a lacquer tinted with the stain. Cabots would probably help but make sure it is well dry before the next coat if it needs it..

Similar Threads

  1. Finishing Tassie Oak?
    By Waldo in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th October 2006, 10:15 PM
  2. tassie oak finishing
    By hatemondays in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 29th November 2003, 10:05 PM
  3. Finishing Tassie Oak
    By Arron in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 29th June 2003, 06:11 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •