Insulating Shed/Garage, again!

[Barry_White]

Barry, I have been getting quotes for a 20 x 9 shed, and while most are now offering aircell as insulation, one guy still insisted that Anticon was the best. Which one would you go for, and why? I believe that Anticon is about 2/3 the price of Aircell.

I still believe anticon installed in a new shed is the better option. It will also reduce the noise in heavy rain. i doubt that the aircell will do that.

[StevePole]

hi guys,

sorry for the thread hi-jack but I just wanted a bit of advice on insulating an existing timber/Hardiflex shed.

The shed itself appears to be a carport that has been roughly framed out and clad with Hardiflex. (I bought the house after the shed was built).

It's pretty much 6m square, 2 car size (5.8/6.0m) with two roller doors on the western wall.

Attachment 48208

In summer, the roller doors as well as the roofing are too hot to touch, in winter here in Melb, its freezing..

From a previous post, It looks like glass or poly batts in the walls, with timber lining is the way to go.

Is there a specific grade/thickness etc of batt I should be looking for? the framing is 90x45.

What should I use on the wall that's a bit cheaper than 12mm ply for areas that I won't be screwing things on to?

The roof/ceiling.. What should I use here? I have 1/2 a roll of thick silver foil from a previous attic conversion project, should I use this in the walls or ceiling?

I'm open to all suggestions on how to heat the space for winter once insulated as well.
Final use will be for 1 car and woodwork workshop.

Thanks
Steve.

[soundman]

silver foil that hasn''t got fuzzy stuff on it wont do much at all.

R3.5 poly will fill a 90mm cavity pretty well.

7mm brace ply is about the cheapes thing That I recon will do the job.
It also comes in 2.7m and 3m lengths.... if that matters.

as for heating... the most economical will be reverse cycle aircon.


painting the roof and roller door a light colour (NOT GREEN) will help a lot.

cheers

[bfx]

The wine storage area in my winery is a colorbond shed - 9m X 18m. I looked at a lot of insulation options and went for 25mm foilboard - polystyrene sandwiched between two sheets of foil - tek screwed to the c purlons throughout the roof and walls. At ground level the walls are lined with 7mm ply to protect the foil board when I am bumping around with trolleys etc.

It works a treat.


Bill

[Bugger]

The wine storage area in my winery is a colorbond shed - 9m X 18m. I looked at a lot of insulation options and went for 25mm foilboard - polystyrene sandwiched between two sheets of foil - tek screwed to the c purlons throughout the roof and walls. At ground level the walls are lined with 7mm ply to protect the foil board when I am bumping around with trolleys etc.

It works a treat.


Bill

Hi guys

I'm looking for a quick, easy and economy way to insulate my 8 x 8 m color bond shed.
Whether aluminum foil or R3.5 poly or R3.5 sandwiched between two sheets of foil as Bill suggested, how do you guys attach them to the ceiling & walls - just screw them straight into steel sheet? or do I have to build a timber frame around first?

Thanks a lot for any suggestion.

Bug

[me3_neuralfibre]

A deck I had installed in PNG had a Foil / Bitchumen / Paper stuff laid under the colourbond. Worked a treat. No radiated heat like my shed gets. I am still looking for it in Brisbane to retrofit to mine.

Paul

[Dan]

Hi guys

I'm looking for a quick, easy and economy way to insulate my 8 x 8 m color bond shed.
Whether aluminum foil or R3.5 poly or R3.5 sandwiched between two sheets of foil as Bill suggested, how do you guys attach them to the ceiling & walls - just screw them straight into steel sheet? or do I have to build a timber frame around first?

Thanks a lot for any suggestion.

Bug

If the foil board was the right width and your shed has top hat purlins then you could remove the barge cap at the end of the roof and just slide it in along the gap between the purlins. The lip on the buttom of the purlin would hold it up, wouldn't it?