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Results 1 to 13 of 13
Thread: First attempt at plastering
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14th July 2007, 01:51 PM #1
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First attempt at plastering
I am going to have a go at plastering our bedroom. The sheets are up and I was going to get someone to do the joining, but I have decided to have ago myself. I have not attempted this before and have done a lot of reading etc, but I am worried about how the finish will come out. How hard is it to fix if I do end up with a average finish. And is it do-able or better left to the pros? What products are the best for a DIYer, eg setting or drying compounds?
Thanks for any tips, Tim.
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14th July 2007, 05:53 PM #2
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Hi Tim,
I think this subject matter has reached saturation point atm. Thus it maybe worth trying using the search tool above on the dark brown toolbar and enter those various questions in the "ask" box.
I am sure you won't be disappointed by the number of replies.
Btw,
Personally I am usually willing to have a go at most things but plastering isn't as easy as the pro's make it look. It's not too bad if it was a little patch up but a whole room I wouldn't bother. Get the pro's in and see if they will let you have a go (ready for the next time).
Regards
NH
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14th July 2007, 08:39 PM #3
quality + reliability
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Timbo if you haven't already done it, have a look at our stopping tips on our web page there is all the info you need to do a good job.
If you get into trouble then post agian either here or on my site.
CheersGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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14th July 2007, 09:10 PM #4
At least you'll turn up on time, or ring yourself if your late, and do a better job than most of the half wit contractors I've met lately.
Except for the delightful rod of course
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15th July 2007, 11:07 AM #5
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Yeh, you can't go past Rod's site if you want to learn anything about dry-wall plastering, and he's usually always here to give you tips if you get in any trouble.
It's not all that hard for the DIYer, but of course you need to know what you're doing or you'll make a dog's breakfast of it.
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15th July 2007, 11:26 AM #6
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Thanks all. I have had a look a Rod's site and it was a great help. I made a brief start last night and will go again today. I am going slow and taking my time, i want to get it right. If I have any dramas I will let you all know, Thanks Tim.
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15th July 2007, 09:50 PM #7
quality + reliability
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Good luck with it. Main thing to remember is to scrape down between coats while the set plaster is still wet. This can get you out of all sorts of trouble.
2nd thing is that it doesnt matter how many coat it takes to get a flat join, over filling is your enemy, scraping back is your friend.
Good luck.Great plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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16th July 2007, 12:01 AM #8
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I second checking out the website. Great advice there.
I agree about the scraping and overfilling as mentioned ^
I would prefer to see a perfectly consistent and smooth join that is just noticable due to slight shrinkback. It looks neat and strong.
A join that has fuller patches in some places and overfill that extends out to far looks messy and patched.
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28th July 2007, 03:37 PM #9
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Well I have been away with work so the renos have been put on hold. Just wanted to know should I use one of those curve edge knifes? or am I better off with a straight one? Will be doing the top coat this week as I have some days off. Thanks for the help.
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28th July 2007, 07:14 PM #10
Straight I'd think.
That's what I used for all coats and it came up as good as the pro's
But then I', assuming you are working the middle of the wall horizontally and not any internal corners? I used an corner tool thingy for the internal corners... pretty much a straight tool for the rest.How much wood could the woodchuck chuck if the woodchuck could chuck wood?
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28th July 2007, 07:50 PM #11
quality + reliability
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Timbo, I am not a fan of curved trowels or joint knifes, even though I used them for many years early on.
If not used properly they can leave you with over filled joins.
If you have a flat 12" blade you can really feel if you are applying the right amount to the join.
I always check if I have filled the join correctly by placing the 12" blade across the join at a 90deg angle.
The join must be flat. Another method is to run your hand across the join very quickly. You can feel if there is any hollow or bumps. If there are fix them, or you will be dissapointed with the outcome.
Cheers
RodGreat plastering tips at
www.how2plaster.com
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29th July 2007, 07:06 PM #12
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Thanks for the advice. I will give the trowel a go and not bother with the curved joint knife thingy. Will be doing the top coat this week so hoping it all goes well, thanks again, Tim.
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29th July 2007, 07:12 PM #13
quality + reliability
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