on site sewer

[gdf26562]

Hi there, not a pleasant subject to ask about, however it is affecting my shed time.

I have a septic tank on the upside of my shed, it is basically to the left of the driveway leading to the shed, now I realise that the tank itself has a channel that allows the sewerage to leech into the ground, this channel (for want of better word) crosses under the driveway and halfway down a small slope, near the corner of my shed, looking at the green grass I can tell where the channel is and stops.

In all the channel is about 20 metres long, my problem is that when I use the dishwasher/washing machine there is sewerage seeping near to the shed, and to say this is impacting on my time in the shed is an understatement.

The question is, is the chanel blocked or is there another reason for the overflow. Do I have to dig up the chanel and clean it out, what to do.... what to do

I understand the basic concept, but does one need to have the septic pumped out occassionally or is it supposed to leech into the ground.

Any other hints for a clean septic would be appreciated

[DavidG]

As with most septic systems they block up with time.
It needs to be checked by a qualified person but you may need a new drainage trench.
This smells like it will be costly.

[journeyman Mick]

I'm in a similar situation at the moment. House (and septic system) are about 25 years old. A while back the toilet started backing up. I hoped that the "cake"had gotten too thick. Over time the solids build up in the tank (they float on top of the liquid) and eventually teh cake is so thick it blocks the tank outlet which is situated partway down the tank. Had the tank pumped out, hoping to find it full of solids so that it would only be a $300 job.

Next step, dig a hole in the trench where the outley pipe goes in. I find waste bubbling up = pipe feeding trenches is ok.

So basically either my trenches are glazed or full of tree roots. Either way, I need new trenches. Depending on the size of the tank you will need 20M and upwards of trenches, although some areas require you to replace with a large soakage "pit", usually a hole about 10m x 20m x 1m deep, with slotted outlets pipes feeding in a "T" at one end and the whole lot filled with rock and covered with geotextile fabric before being covered with topsoil.

I've got a mate with a bobcat and excavator who estimates it will cost me minimum $3K to do my trenches, not including plumbers labour. There goes my shed extension for now.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but it sounds like your trenches are glazed or collapsed and you will need new ones.

Mick

[KevM]

In all the channel is about 20 metres long, my problem is that when I use the dishwasher/washing machine there is sewerage seeping near to the shed, and to say this is impacting on my time in the shed is an understatement.

The question is, is the chanel blocked or is there another reason for the overflow. Do I have to dig up the chanel and clean it out, what to do.... what to do

I understand the basic concept, but does one need to have the septic pumped out occassionally or is it supposed to leech into the ground.

Any other hints for a clean septic would be appreciated

I've had some "fun" with septic tanks in years gone by.

Mine was a dual purpose tank, requires pumping out every 2-4 years then needs to be got working again to break down the "crap".

The problem with a dual purpose is the soap & grease from Laundry kitchen & bathroom kills the action of the bacteria in the septic. As a result I had to dig over a period of years two new trenches as the old ones ended sealing up the sides with a greasey like substance.

What I really needed to do was install a grease trap on the waste water to keep the grease out of the drainage trenches.

I sold the house alleviating my need to install a grease pit and bypass pipe.

[ozwinner]

Do it properly and replace it with one of these.

Al

[bricks]

From a city plumber who don't work on septics a whole lot- just what I remember from around the traps.

Regular maitenance of your septic is a must (although I have basicall no expeirience with them) Id suggest you yourself remove the lid every year, see if theres a big crust deposit 1- 200 mm thick would be ok. People I know rekon pumping every 3-4 years is required. Or you may get the problem you have right now.

You also need to be carefull what type of detergents etc you use as if you use the wrong ones eg soaker or bleech type products they can stop your septic working all together and cause the problem you have right now.

I'm going to assume that your shed was built after the septic tank was installed because it sounds like the trench is too close to the shed and shouldnt be running under a driveway or paving at all to the best of my knowledge.

Trees definately can wreck your trench,.

Id call a pump truck to pump out your septic straight away, Ask the pump company how often they think your septic should be pumped ( realise that they will be very helpfull for themslves).

[gdf26562]

Thanks for your advice guys, was hoping for a quick fix, but knowing I wasn't going to get one.... can only hope.

I might look at what ozwinner suggested, spend a bit of money and get the benefits, will have to do some research and more overtime.

cheers

[bloggs1968]

'G'day all

I'm in the process of having my septic replaced at the moment. Not too old a system ( around 16 years but we only recently purchased the house and it had never been pumped) but the trenches have had stock on them and some vehicles and are not working that effectively.

I got a consultant around and he took some soil samples and then designed a new system around the number of rooms in the house (and any planned additions) and as I am plumbing my new shed in to the same sytem he allowed for that also. All is based on number of people using the system, type of soil ( how well the excess fluid is absorbed) and evaporation rates. He just punched the numbers in to the system and told me how long and how many trenches and how big a tank to use.

I got the plumber in for a quote and all up around $9K for a 4000l tank and 4 x 20m trenches, disconnecting old etc etc. This was based on 5 bedroom and two rural workers in the shed.

I looked at the treatment system option but you have to pay a service fee to the council on a quarterly basis and the supplying company comes and services it.

Hope this helps.

AD

[echnidna]

There are commercially available enzymes that are supposed to eat the grease & crud. Could be worth trying them before you go for the big fix.
Sorry I don't know where to find them but I'd start with google.

[Big Shed]

One mob regularly advertises in the Weekly Times.

Used to use this in our houseboat sewage tank, did a great job, almost no smell or nasties come pump-out time.

[journeyman Mick]

There are commercially available enzymes that are supposed to eat the grease & crud. Could be worth trying them before you go for the big fix.
Sorry I don't know where to find them but I'd start with google.

Look for "actizyme" in your supermarket or hardware store. Good stuff, but won't help at all if your trenches have collapsed or are full of tree roots.

Mick

[extrajosh2]

Hi all,
I am building a shed and house on a block. I am needing to know the minimum gradient required for the pipes so as the bum nuggets float down stream and coulcil is happy. Thanks