Removing Stains From Kauri Pine

[Mmcbain]

Hi

Easter was a time for me to start my restoration project.

I removed the top layer of finish to a kauri pine table - I think oil and was were used.

Once this was done, I found the pine underneath very stained and marked. I did expect some wear, but this is quite extensive.

Are there any ways to try and remove some of the stains and marks? I have rubbed down once with metho. I do not want to go any further at this stage.

Also - sand sealer and grain filler - can anyone tell me the difference and would it be worthwhile to use something like these prior to finishing - with what ever method I ever decide on.

I have order Neil's book, so hopefully that will enlighten me more.

Thanks for you help.

Regards.

Marls

[zitan]

Hi Mmcbain;

I'm restoring a solid rimu dresser left to me by my grandfather. Not really a restoration but a complete rebuild since some of the timber near the floor was full of borer. Haven't had the opportunity to work with NZ or Queensland Kauri yet, but have worked with the Fijian type. Being relatively soft woods the only way to remove all the blemishes is to hand plane it. I smoothed a 1.5*0.4m panel the other day with my #3 and it is now perfect - Starrett flat. Before it was a horrible mess of rolling countryside!
You can try scraping but planing is much faster and leaves a better surface. Basically you have to remove the offending layer of stained and damaged wood. This might also depend on the thickness of the top and if there is any moulding around the edges - I got lucky since this dresser is made from 1" thick square edged boards. Serious planing won't affect the look of thick boards, but it'll definitely be different if it were very thin.

After planing you MUST, not should, use a sealer. Blond or white shellac quickly brushed on until it doesn't absorb any more works best. You can then finish it without it looking patchy or too saturated (with oil etc). Don't use polyurethane, especially on light woods like Kauri - You'll have to do the whole job again in 20 years when it turns orange. Be sure you get an even coat, espacially near the edges. You shouldn't need to use any filler, unless of course you've got borer holes as I have!

Zitan

[Mmcbain]

Thanks for the tip Zitan.

I am thinking about trying the UBEAUT product - hard shellac - for the top after receiving some very good advise from Neil.

No borer, so looks as though another weekend will be spent "on the table".

Thanks.

Marls