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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default Rotten rotted post!

    I'm putting together a driveway gate. The previous post that the gate hung off had rotted and broke off about 150 mm below the ground. I have spent hours chipping away at what's left of the old redgum post for very little result. Does anyone know how I can get the old post out. The new one has to go in the same spot and so I need to get the old one out. Any advice appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Toowoomba Q 4350
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    Default

    hmm, drill the old crap out of the old post, dig the rest out and re-seat the new post?


    Tiger, I'm very interested in your experience as we have a fence post that seems to have lost some vertical "strength" in the past 3 months.

    cheers
    Wendy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
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    53
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    Default

    Face the fact that you are going to have to dig a hole in order to concrete the new post in propery and cease with trying to chip out the old one and just dig it out. If it has a concrete path or something around it cut a nice 300 x 300 hole in the concrete, smash that out then dig. When you concrete the new one in fill it right to the old path level and finish it to match.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    3,208

    Default

    Dig the soil concrete surrounding it out with a crowbar and lever the remains out
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default

    Wendy, I have tried to drill through. Doesn't help much. This redgum is fierce. Burnsy, it's a small property didn't want to cut more concrete away and it's on clay so it all means more digging. Isn't there a tool I could use to make it all a bit easier . Probably going to enconter this again at some stage and I'd like to quickly get the post out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    There is no easy way to remove it.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default

    You probably right Bob, but I can't imagine professionals using up that much time, surely a jackhammer would make short work of it?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
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    53
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    Default

    I would agree there is no easy way, a jackhammer will not work on wood, the only mechanical way would be a large auger bit and vacum out the swerf. As an ex-landscaping professional I would give you a 95% chance of becoming frustrated with that and having to resort to my earlier method.

    As a side, this was always one of the pains of working in the industry, people look at a job like that and think it can be that much effort how can it be worth that much in labour.

    Example, I own a jackhammer and a quickcut and a concrete mixer so would allow 2 hours (might do it in one but I never take the risk) to replace the post plus tool wear therefore around $200. Do it yourself options are 1. without the right tools, could take all day, what is your time worth? Option 2. hire the tools, at least $100 and would probably take the average person longer than someone who does it all the time so allow half a day again. Not much in it really. I have had to replace a fair few old jarrah timber gate posts over the years and think only one came out of the concrete footing. Not really any benefit though as the footing still needs to come out to do it right.
    Last edited by Burnsy; 9th June 2007 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Added more

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    777

    Default

    A jackhammer with a clay spade may allow you to dig the surrounding clay away more easily. In fact if you can free the neck of the conctrete to get a chain around it run it over a post to a 4wd you may be able to pull it out.

    CHeers
    Michael

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    I am in agreement with Burnsy and Echidna. A year ago I replaced our entire front fence as some of the posts were rotten.
    Tiger - I feel your pain, we have a lot of clay (near Norman Creek catchment in Brisbane), to get the post footings out I had to use a pick, sledgehammer, spade and star picket (good for breaking up clay) to remove the footings. It is hard work but once your figure out how you get a techique going. I removed 7 in a day and a half.

    Good luck.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
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    Default Update

    <TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">As others have said on this thread it was a painful job. I was lucky that the was only about 550 mm in the ground. What I found really difficult was not so much excavating the soil area around the post (in order to lever out the remains of the post) but the hardness of some of the concrete used down there. It was rock hard . The heaviest crow bar that I had simply had no affect on the concrete. It was a few hundred mm into the ground so no sledgehammer would have helped. I ended up drilling numerous holes and weakening the concrete so that I could then thump it with the crowbar. It cost me hours of work.

    Wendy, hopefully yours isn't as bad. Would recommend getting a jackhammer if you hit hard concrete like I did. There were 2 different types of concrete used on my post. One broke fairly easily, the other didn't. Whatever tool exists for this sort of work is worth it. My experience was hard, exhausting work. I think fence builders really earn their money.
    </TD></TR><TR UNSELECTABLE="on" hb_tag="1"><TD style="FONT-SIZE: 1pt" height=1 UNSELECTABLE="on">
    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    355

    Default

    There in lies the problem and is nothing but a recipe for a future problem... concreting timber into the ground. The timber shrinks thus creating a gap thus being a trap for water/moisture to enter and do its thing.

    Hope you replace it with gal steel.

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