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Thread: Rendering Advice
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2nd May 2007, 08:12 PM #1
Rendering Advice
I have a cream brick veneer home that we are looking to have rendered and e are in Burwood East Victoria.
Just want some advice as to what to look out for in service providers and how much a 4 bedroom, 2 living room single storey house would cost.
Any tips?
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2nd May 2007, 09:41 PM #2Member
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hello,
to give idea of cost:
length x height of walls (dont take out openings) and multiply by say $45.00
that will give fairly good price indication for 2 basecoats and 1 colored texture coat
if you are "handy" their is ways of saving dollars
thankyou
myla
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2nd May 2007, 09:54 PM #3
Thanks for that.
I would consider myself handy...so what can I do to save some cash? What can I do?
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2nd May 2007, 10:13 PM #4Member
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hello,
by working with a renderer, yes I do rendering,
rendering is very easy, and around 70% of a rendering job is labour
will pm
thankyou
myla
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2nd May 2007, 10:30 PM #5
No worries...please do.
I'm happy to get my hands dirty.
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4th June 2007, 05:46 PM #6mega renovator
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- Mar 2007
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- melbourne
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Myla,
thought this was a forum to help people on-line.
you're not fishing for work are you.
I am also a renderer but am not dangling the hook out for anyone.
just a query.
p.s. can't get any work offline? How come?
I'm flooded. Just returned form a two storey 40 squares job in QLD.
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5th June 2007, 01:51 AM #7Novice
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Hi there
I'm in the same predicament with Spider. I would like to render a blueboard but not really sure how to save $$$. I consider myself handy - just extended the house to a 2 bedroom.
Myla, just how hard is it to render. I haven't done one before let alone know what material I need.
Any help/advise would be great. I would like to mix oxide on the render.
Thanks
Rel
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5th June 2007, 01:50 PM #8Member
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hello,
I actually like to work with owner builders who want to contribute labour, learn a new skill and save money.
My refernces stand the test of time.
Rendering is not that difficult and have stated before most "handy" people could trowel on the wall and float but may have trouble when getting to corners, window reveals etc
Cement sheet is flat, so easier as everything is thin coats.
Bunnings sell a cement sheet render (20kg) bag, mix with water and trowel on with mesh over joints.
Rel, do you want what I call a mechanical pristine looking wall, ie. color very constant?
thanks
myla
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5th June 2007, 10:30 PM #9Novice
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Thanks for your reply, Myla. Hey, by the way, I don't mean to hijack this thread. Sorry, Spider.
But, I guess, it is relevant to your saving $$$ and learning how to render.
So, what is a 'mechanical pristine'? Please, enlighten us. And if it's make the job easier, better looking, etc, then I am all for it.
Over to you, Myla.
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6th June 2007, 06:54 PM #10
Please so enlighten us: what is mechanical prisitine?
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6th June 2007, 08:17 PM #11Member
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hello,
most paint type finishes give what I describe as the mechanical pristine finish, constant color, either by paint or trowel on texture (paint type product) and is probably on 80-90% of most houses that are rendered
oxide type renders are available as premixed dry 20kg bags with oxide incorporated and give a slight patchy-ness to the finish, although are coming back in fashion with the french provincial style architecture that is appearing
they also age and have some people think a bit more character
thankyou
myla
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6th June 2007, 10:39 PM #12Novice
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1. What would be the most economical option - paint-type or cement render?
2. What would be most workable between the two....for a novice?
3. Workability - which is easier to apply?
4. Any ballpark figure on prices on both types?
5. Durability - how long does each last before any noticeable, say fading or cracking?
6. Last but not the least, with such experiences and skills you possess as I seem to portray you....based on what I had been reading....what would be the recommended render for a blueboard.
Thank you, Myla.
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6th June 2007, 11:15 PM #13Member
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hello,
1. if doing yourself, material cost wont really be an issue, labour is the big cost if contractor doing work,
2. the paint type, also the high polymer type bags, thin coats
3. the paint type or high polymer bags, as thin coats
4. not sure in syd, bag of high polymer for blueboard maybe around $35/20kg, get around 8-10sqM coverage if thin coat, paint type's around $60/15lt
5. cracking comes down to application, I like to bed mesh in when doing first coat, others do joints one day, then skim first coat the next, fading is down to climate xposure, sun, uv, shady walls etc,
but typically you may get 7-15 yrs before any treatment depending on color and maintenance of walls, ie cleaning
6. i like the high polymer cement 20kg bag mixes, first skim coat and bed mesh, second coat to neaten up, then either paint (weathershield) or trowel on paint-type texture to color
tools, not sure in Syd, probably best bet would be a small plasterboard supplier, they would have tools and most likely the render
thankyou
myla
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6th June 2007, 11:53 PM #14Novice
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Do yo mean ....mesh, as in what you use on gyprock wall joint prior to plastering?
I had just been reading the render paint made by wattyl. Is this the same?
http://www.wattyl.com.au/Applicators...ady+Render.htm
Cheers
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7th June 2007, 09:07 PM #15Member
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- melbourne
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hello,
yes similar to meshing gyprock, whether it be plasterboard, blueboard, hebel powerpanel or any cladding the joints require treatment
that product from wattyl (granosite) is new and dulux have a similar called Powerfinish for Hebel powerpanel
I am sceptical of these new products as they heavily promote no meshing of the joints, I am not so sure
dulux and granosite (wattyl) have good finishing products, trowell on texture coats, paint is thin thin thin, like 0.1 of a millimetre,
with rendering you still need body to cover, treat joint etc
thankyou
myla
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